I need to cut some 1/16" slices off the 2" side of a (many) 2 * 4.
I'll probably use cedar. I need the 1/16" part not the rest. In fact
if it were possible I'd like to slice the entire 2 * 4 into 1/16"
strips. I've done this before on my table saw but it's a little brutal
and there's the constant calculation of 3 1/2 minus 1/16 minus the saw
kerf = fence set. Then reduced size minus 1/16 minus saw kerf = next
fence set. Etc., etc.
Of course all this would be unnecessary if the lumber yards sold 1/16"
stock in varying widths. 1/8" too.
It occurred to me that a band saw might be the better tool to use
especially as the "re-sawing" function seems to be suited to just
this. (Why is it RE-sawing and not just plain "sawing"?) Would a band
saw be the tool of choice especially given the thinness? Can I use the
saw in such a way that the 1/16" is between the blade and the fence so
I don't have to continuously recalculate the distance? Is it feasible
to do this on an "el cheapo" brand?
snipped-for-privacy@NoGoodISP.gov wrote in news:ouu211llhnm4k46s8sagdglbi9odcuaakg@
Sure, that's a primary function of a bandsaw. Lots of us do exactly what
you describe when we make shopmade veneers.
You can place a wooden fence beside the blade (separated from the edge of
the kerf by 1/16") and just saw slice after slice. Having a good blade
with proper tension and tracking helps. Depending on the use for the
veneer, you can re-joint the face between sawing each slice (cuts your
sanding/scraping in half).
I'm not sure what you mean by an "el cheapo" brand but I'd suggest a 14" or
better bandsaw made by a reputable company (e.g., Jet, Delta, Grizzly,
I did something similar with my 9" Ryobi bandsaw - the one you can get
from Home Depot for about $100, cutting 1/16" thick slices from a piece
of Sitka spruce to make side-wall braces for an acoustic guitar. Worked
What do y'all plan to use the 1/16" cedar for?
Nate Perkins wrote:
The Rolled furring strips is what I really want to buy. I've already
spent about 24 hours (over a two week period) phoning around, checking
websites, visiting lumber yards, and calling fortifiber. When I tell
the very sexy voice on the "ring us to locate your nearest
distributor" line that I'm in NYC there's a big sigh and a "We don't
have anyone who sells in NYC". This is not the first time this sort of
thing has happened. It's because there's very little new
non-skyscraper construction in NYC and the place is a very hard market
to be in, anyway. Those of you who live in Boise ID or just the
far-flung 'burbs don't know how lucky you are when it comes to these
sort of things. OTOH if you want some boutique raw milk cheese, "gold"
sashimi grade toro, or a $5,000 bottle of wine, NYC is a great place
I want the strips to furr out places on a wall where the plaster has
been stripped from a lath and plaster base so that I can apply
sheetrock and have it flush with the still existing plaster. The
plaster may vary from 1/2 to 1-1/4 thick but mostly it's 1/2 to 3/4
but variable. Unfortunately I only have two bedrooms and a parlor to
go so 100' would last me a lifetime (i.e., it's not worth some company
going out of their way to help).
So to those who said the bandsaw result might be a little rough, hey,
close enough is good enough and there's always the belt sander.
I do have another application though. A few months ago I repaired some
pocket doors where the previous owners had fitted vertical dead bolt
locks (the house was originally an "SRO" or rooming house) by covering
the damaged panels with 1/4 strips of oak and cherry I acquired from
Rockler. Cost me an arm and a leg. If I had have had a bandsaw maybe I
could have created my own 1/4 strips from larger stock. I have a
couple more doors to fix....
And I need some cove molding 1/2 * 1/2 with a 5/16 radius. Lots of
luck trying to find that stock. I've already solved this one though
using sanded-4-sides 1/2 * 1 5/8 molding and a router bit from
Grizzly. Route the cove and then rip the molding off. It would have
been nice to do it in oak though which I could have done if I could
have reduced 1 * stock to 1/2 (i'm not buying a planer AND a bandsaw
And there's always the justification to slip a new toy past SWMBO <g>.
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.
Tue, Feb 15, 2005, 4:53am (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@NoGoodISP.gov says:
<snip> Of course all this would be unnecessary if the lumber yards sold
1/16" stock in varying widths. 1/8" too. <snip>
How thick are door skins? Seems to me they must be close to 1/16".
And, I have seen 1/8" stock for sale too, somewhere. You just need to
check a bit more, if you want to buy.
Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.
- David Fasold
The perfect machine for the job. If you use what is called a 'meat and
fish' blade (M+F) which has no kerf you get near as flat as is possible
with less waste. My message going back to 20002 i think tells more.
I'm no BS expert, but yeah, they'll do exactly that. A good blade and
some basic tuning, and you are all set. FWW had an article awhile
back that made all of this simple, and it worked for me. The key, I
believe was the blade. http://bcsaw.com/ Buy several and the price
is pretty good. Not as great as the article suggested, but I bought 4
105" blades for 57 US.
A typical 14" saw should do that and more. I have the Jet. Delta is
good, so are others.
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 04:53:41 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@NoGoodISP.gov wrote:
If it were me, I'd think about having the 1/16" piece next to
the fence and a helper pulling that part thru the final few inches
so there's no kickback. You still have more kerf than finished
product, but you avoid the constant resetting of the fence.
And, for a few more passes, the thicker part is away from
the blade, making use of a push stick a little easier/safer.
Slightly cheaper solution, too. ;-)
You make a stop for the left side of the blade. I have a wood block that
has a strip on the bottom that goes into the miter slot. A screw on the
right edge of it allows me to adjust it as fine as needed. This keeps the
wide piece safely near the fence.
There was a thread here last fall about ripping thin strips on a table saw,
titled "Cutting thin strips on TS". Google that up, and see if the comments
there help you any.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
The way you posed your question suggests to me you have not done this before
on a bandsaw.
Before you drop the money on a good bandsaw, you should search out someone
who has done what you ask and view the resultant cut wood.
A bandsaw is not like a sturdy table saw. The surfaces of the cut wood are
going to be rough with tooth marks. This will require the use of a plane,
sander, or some tool to flatten the surface before it can be used. Also, as
you feed the stock through the blade, slight leading to one side or the
other will occur as differences in the wood interact with the cutting blade.
The resulting thickness changes will cause small waves in the wood. Again,
you will need to employ a tool to flatten the wood.
1/16 inch slice leaves very little room for removing teeth marks and
thickness waves. Others with more experience than I should be able to
suggest a tool versus cost solutions for you. I would go with a thickness
sander for 1/16 inch. If you wanted 1/4 inch or so, a portable surface
planner might be another way. However, you could lose up to 1/8 inch of
material with a thickness/surface planner if you wanted a smooth flat and
ready for finish surface.
I hope this helps.
Done similar stuff.
Sand the edge of the 2 X4 to required fineness. Cut off slice with
bandsaw and 3/4 inch thin kerf blade. Similar to this...
Cut as fast as possible with the bandsaw and blade that you use - fewer
ridges that way.. Also - I think only a 14" wheel or larger can handle
these wide, thin-kerf blades.
We built the desktop sander from http://nicks.ca - and I know there are
similar out there.
The surface sander is handy because you can sand the back edge if you
need a close fit. (It takes a light touch... :-) ) Or, you can glue the
good side and use the sander or a planer to fix the "rough-sawn" bandsaw
edge -- which is easier in my opinion -- since there is now a strong
backing... It can be a little difficult to gauge the finished thickness.
So a little extra thickness on the cut is in order.
You can use a hand planer or surface sander or power planer to smooth
the surface ...
Have a look here -- where i have done what you describe for banding...
The banding and edging on the desk and tray was made in this manner.
It's a little thick though -- 1/8" .
I adjust my fence to cut the narrow edge between the blade and the fence
-- works fine so far - just make sure it has a WOOD guard bolted to the
fence in case the blade wanders on a bad cut..
Is it TAS -- or just getting a bandsaw purchase past SWMBO?
Between the cost of wood and tools it is cheaper to get someone to do
the job -- unless the tools will be used often or the value of the
finished product is relatively high.
I definitely would use my bandsaw for this project. Adjust fence so
it is 1/16th inch from blade, and just keep feeding the 2x4 thru till
it is gone, then pick next 2x4 and repeat as necessary
On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 04:53:41 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@NoGoodISP.gov wrote:
Bandsaw, 1/2", 3 TPI hook tooth blade, tensioned properly and guides
set a dollar bill thickness from the blade. Fence on the "1/16th"
minimum band exposure - 2 1/4", push "paddle" like the rubber
on the bottom push "sticks". Feed at as constant a rate as you can
and as fast as is safe. Hand plane or machine join the parent part's
cut face between bandsaw passes to have 1 smooth flat face on the
parts you're making.
If you've got a planer, a bench top will work fine, and can make
a jig for holding thin stock for planing this'll work
Or a drum sander will get you there too.
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