Bandsaw - Tire Brush Addition

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I, presently, have a nylon tooth brush mounted on mine. At first I had it mounted such that it overheated and melted a tad. I suspect if one were to use some natural, broom straws from an old wisk broom it might be better. Just bundle up a bunch the size of a dime and use epoxy on one end of the bundle. Trim and mount.

Larry

I have a bandsaw wheel brush from Iturra Designs that's nylon and I've had it for about a year with no noticeable wear or melting. But I don't know whether all nylon is the same.

(BTW, if you've got a bandsaw, give Iturra a call at 888-722-7078 and ask for a c>I have a 14 in. bandsaw, and am looking to add a brush to the lower wheel to

-- jc Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection. If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net

My shop-made brush balance was made from a brass wire brush. You could buy a boar hair brush and cut it to fit.

I called them two about 3 wks ago, I need to the catalog to order a new spring, two tires and cool blocks. They never replied!

I called them about 3 wks ago, I need the catalog to order a new spring, two tires and cool blocks. They never replied!

The price is reasonable. Something like $6

Ditto, and Ditto!

Old - fashion scrub brush like the ones you used to GI the latrines. Two bunches across, two long, and the wooden block bolts in.

When I called for a catalog, it took forever to arrive, too (months, I think). But when I called to order (still waiting for the catalog), they helped identify what I needed and shipped my order in a reasonable time. I think that catalog requests are forwarded to a monk who produces them one at a time by hand.

PDX David

Do you know the prices for the following items...(for Grizzly G0555)

1. Tension spring.
2. Replace bearing guide to cool block guide.
3. Tires (require 2, what type?) Finally, do they have a website and do they sell BS saw blades?

Thanks, appreciate your reply.

Step-by-step directions, using a toothbrush:

The article is interesting in that it contradicts some very basic tenets about band saw setup & operation.

Hello WD,

If these questions are directed to me I'm afraid my Iturra catalog is a few years old now so prices wouldn't be accurate. (besides I don't think I could find it :-)

They do sell BS blades. But I recommend calling them, telling them what saw you have, and getting their recommendation on what to buy. They are nice folks and really know their stuff.

PDX David

Care to elaborate? (And no, I'm not looking to pick a fight. This sounds genuinely interesting.)

--RC

"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells 'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets fly with a club. -- John W. Cambell Jr.

We're sorry, but we can't find the HomePage you've requested. It's possible that: ...

It would be nice to know the prices before calling them. I need a good bandsaw blade to finished resaw green lumbers. While at it I am might as well buy a few items I mentioned earlier.

Thanks,

I hope I'm not mistating anything:

1. The author uses the band saw with a 1/2 inch 3 tpi skip tooth blade for "just about " "everything" 2. 1/2 HP is more than enough for "big resawing tasks" on a 14" saw with a 1/2" 3 tpi blade; anything more than that "is overkill." In general, a 1/3 HP motor is enough otherwise.
2. Undertension the blade.
3. Set the fence once and leave it alone. Align the blade instead.
4. Use metal blocks with a clearance of .001 rather than the standard .003

WD wrote in news:03gCd.5921$ snipped-for-privacy@fe61.usenetserver.com:

FWIW you can buy the springs from other places (such as

I'm not sure how you would go about replacing the G0555 roller bearings with cool blocks.

Hope that helps.

I have got to find a copy of that article. After #1, the statements are not accurate without a lot of qualifiers, IMO. Actually, a 1/2" blade is not good for "just about" everything, either. I tried cutting some fairly modest curves on my machine with a 1/2" the other day. Pfui. #2, might be true in ideal conditions. Might not, too, with jarrah and ipe and hickory and hard maple. Undertensioning *some* blades works. With others, you get a barrel cut.

For #4, I'm still looking for a blade adjustment knob on my bandsaw. In oher words, WTF does this MEAN?

Block clearance: maybe. Some times. Some times not.

Charlie Self "A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to the ground." H. L. Mencken

It's "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing" by Michael Fortune on page 66 of the December 2004 issue of Fine Woodworking.

He does have some. There are probably other implicit ones that I didn't pick up on because I haven't used a band saw in 40 years. (I'm not arguing that he is right, by the way).

I'll quote a bit:

" Align the blade to eliminate drift

When I bought my bandsaw in 1974, I set the fence parallel to the miter gauge slot in the table and I haven't had to adjust it since. The reason is that I use the tracking adjustment on the upper bandsaw wheel to align the blade (see drawings on the facing page). A nightmare of fence adjust- ments ensues if each new blade is allowed to track differently. Simply be keeping the centerline of the blade (regardless of width) in line with the centerline of the upper wheel, I am able to keep the blade aligned correctly at the blade guides."

There's more on this.