bandsaw not running straight

take a 2x4 and try to make 2 equal 2x2's with a fence on one side. After cutting I have 2 pieces of wood that look like the fence stoned on cocaine...I know the bandsaw likes me just maybe messing with me and enjoying a good laugh with the other tools in my shop. Seriously, how can I stop this from happening?

Moyo

Reply to
moyo
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You need a good blade for resawing (properly tensioned) and a good tune up on the saw. Setting the guides properly, getting the wheels co-planer, etc. Get a good book on bandsaws and have at it. Duginski (sp?) is a good one. Ed

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

Don't listen to those suggestions. I had the same problem and thought I needed better cool blocks. What I found out I needed was a blade stabilizer. TWC (The Woodworkers Choice) sells such an item for around $60-$65. This unit replaces the cool blocks on top and it has a small grove that the blade rides in. Once it is installed to line up with the blade, you move it forward about 1/8" putting a small arc in the blade at the cutting point. At this point you use low tension blades and it works like a scroll saw. I have cut 2x4's, part. board, plywood etc and I'm glad I spent the $60 for mine. TWC also carries the low tension blades. I cut a piece of 3/4" particle board into 2- 3/8's pieces using my fence and never thought a thing of it.

TWC participles in the woodworking shows if they come to your area. usually their show items are cheaper because of the show. Otherwise you can reach them at 1-800-892-4866 or

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This item is a bandsaw blade stabilizer.

-- Woody

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Reply to
Joe "Woody" Woodpecker

Get this

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up your bandsaw and you will be surprised.

Reply to
Preston Andreas

Like the others have written, it's probably just in need of proper adjusting. I always use a piece of mdf clamped to the table instead of a

*real* fence so that I can adjust for the blade's drift. Although I've tried various after market guide systems (Carter, etc.), I gone back to the cool blocks that come with the Jet 14" saw. They work great when properly adjusted. For most work, I just leave the 1/4" 4-tpi blade on the saw for resawing, ripping, and general sawing. It leaves a finish that is easily cleaned up with one pass through the jointer.
Reply to
Richards

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