Well, the last time I did that it was for a set of exterior shutters.
Yes, I know that a stub tenon with good glue will hold about as well
as the strength of the wood will allow. But for things like shutters
and kitchen or bathroom cabinet doors, which are subject to lots of
moisture, I like the strength of a long tenon. Chairs as well - I've
repaired lots of antiques in which the glue had failed but the long
tenons still kept things together. Exterior doors.
Frankly, I consider stub tenons to be a bit of a shortcut favored only
because they allow you to cut the joint with a single shaper pass.
But then. that's just me.
No,,, the mortiser attachment works differently. The chisel which receives
most of the load is attached to the quill IIRC and the bit simply spins
inside like most any other bit. A shaper would exert side pressure....
BUT mortisers tend to be quite a bit of extra trouble when used on a DP.
Putting it on adjusting and removing it is a multi step precess that takes
time For me that would get real old Quick. I would advise a dedicated
mortiser to leace your DP free to drill holes. Dedicated mortisers tend to
be relatively inexpensive.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)63349381&sr=8-13
I think I would confirm that with Delta... it still shows on their site..
But it looks like the 16.5" has most of the features that the 17" has.
I would not say to avoid the Rikon, DP's tend to not be complicated as long
as the bearing run out is OK. I doubt Rikon has problems with that. BUT
IIRC the Rikon had a pretty short quill travel and although the table seemed
large it did not tilt like the Delta.
It's a sanding drum. And yes, it would experience some lateral
pressure similar to what a shaper bit would experience. However, the
lateral pressure would be much less. One other thing to consider too.
Drill presses operate at much slower RPMs than shapers and routers. I
doubt whether a drill press could spin a shaper bit fast enough to
effectively cut wood.
I've dropped the occasional router bit into the drill press, and they work
ok for drilling holes. (I don't have any Forstner style bits yet, so if I
need a flat hole I've got to use the router bit.) They don't spin fast
enough to do any real cutting of wood, except in the smallest dimension.
It seems the velocity of the router bit is necessary not only for cutting,
but for clearing the chips out, too.
No. A sanding drum. And what upscale said, a sanding drum is not as tough
on a DP as a shaper bit would be. Remember the sanding drum does not dig
out large chunks of wood by comaprison as a shaper bit would. Tpically
shaper bits have 3-5 contact points where the blade hits the work, that
shock would be hard on the bearings.
Pressure on the bearing would not be as damaging as hammering on the
1/2" better? LOL
I had a 36" radial DP prior so I had to get used to the idea of a reach of
8.5" in the 17" DP vs. what I had, 18" on the 36" DP. It was mostly a
mental obstacle I think as I have not had a problem drilling what I need.
The older DP was a bench top with a tilting head rather than a tilting table
however I was limited on drilling depth and the length/height of the object
to be drilled.
No, the 17-950L and 17-959L Both have the same (very nice) table.
The 17-959L has 3/4 HP instead of 1/2 HP, and 4.875" quill length instead of
It can also be wired for 240 (I'm not sure how valuable that is), and has 16
instead of 12. Of these differences, the quill lengh and the power seem the
significant to me (in that order).
Your comments have left me thinking about "drilling deep holes" and quill
length for a few days.
By deep, I don't mean deeper than about 6". I ran into the concept of a
"drill bit extender".
That left me suspicious. Are any folks using these to compensate for short
of their DP (with good results)? If they work so well, it sort of means
one doesn't need
to be as concerned about quill lenth, right? I guess it may depend on one's
the drill to make a bigger hole coming out than going in (in fact, bigger
Perhaps I don't understand you point, but a long drill bit doesn't
make the bit move any further (the purpose of a long quill travel).
You could move the table to meet the chuck, I suppose though that's a
I was thinking that any run-out effect would be proportional to the
distance that the drill bit is extended into the work, and the extender
would magnify this since I would expect it to be an imperfect connector.
If the bit is shorther than the quill travel naturally you would be limited
to the bit length for drilling holes. There are bit extenders but those
typically are of no help on a DP, the extenders are larger in diameter than
the drill bit and will not go inside the hole.
Typically I want a longer quill travel so that I can drill out Pen centers
and have a little excess room to manuver.
Unless you are using a Forstner bit--which I thought might be typical
for deep holes. Of course, your "pen center" example seems like a
counter-example. I'm not sure of the smallest Forster bit size--I'll
look it up. I assume one could get one with 1/4" shaft (but I haven't
Yes, that occurred to me while I have been thinking about this. The
extra quill length buys one convenience in set up!
I do not recall hearing of anyone using a drill press as a shaper. I
suspect that would be too slow to provide a clean cut.(Which is why
router bits do not work well in a DP)
I have read that even sanding drums are not recommended for any DP
where the chuck is mounted to a Morse taper quill. My understanding
is that the side load causes the chuck to loosen and come off.
Probably exciting enough with a sanding drum, but I think I'll step
outside it you want to try it with shaper knives...
Lots of drill presses have a top speed of 5,000 or so RPM. Not quite
up to the speed of most shapers, but enough so that you can get a
You are right about the side load being a problem, though.
Many drill presses have a spindle with a female Morse taper, and use
an arbor with a male Morse taper and a male Jacobs taper to mount the
chuck. Typically, there is no drawbar holding the arbor to the
spindle - and the side load imposed by a shaper cutter or a sanding
drum can loosen the arbor from the spindle.
The chuck on most drill presses has a female Jacobs taper, and mounts
on a male Jacobs taper on the abovementioned arbor or directly on the
spindle. Some have a threaded locking collar which holds the Jacopbs
tapers together. Most don't, though. Although the Jacobs tapers are
not intended to be frequently separated, the short length of the
Jacobs tapers make them more susceptible to separating from side
loading than the Morse tapers.
Finally, even if the chuck is firmly connected to the spindle, a
Jacobs chuck is not designed to take heavy side loads. Heavy side
loads can cause a cutter to walk its way right out of the chuck jaws.
Take a look at any milling machine whose owner regularly uses end
mills in the drill chuck, and you'll usually find that those end mills
have left tracks in the vise and mill table.
I have an old Delta Milwaukee 14" drill press, which uses
interchangeable spindles. The usual spindle has a male Jacobs 33
taper, and a drill chuck stays on it. I have another spindle with a
1/2" hole in it and set screws - that one can take router bits or
bushings for mortising bits. Another spindle has a 5/16" shaft,
threaded on the end, for a line of special small shaper cutters.
Another has a flange and a short 1/2" shaft, threaded on the end, for
cup-type grinding wheels. Finally, some have female Morse #1 and #2
ends - some solid and some with the Morse socket carried on a Jacobs
taper. Lots of variations, depending on the job.
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