I'm just starting to build a TV stand. It is oak plywood and real oak for
the face frame, drawers and the top will have a 1" wide band of oak on the
perimeter. My plan was to attach them with a couple of biscuits to help hold
them in place and just glue and clamp. There is no stress or weight on the
edges when in use.
A few weeks ago Norm was adding edge to plywood but he cut a groove in the
wood and tongue in the plywood. I realize this is stronger, but is it
needed in a place that just stationary? Table top, chest lid, I'd do it;
but here can I pass?,
When I built my entertainment sectional, I just glued the trim pieces to the
plywood. I love Norm, but I think sometimes he makes more work for himself.
I really think he needs to get rid of that pink plat shirt.
Well I can't believe the carpenter has done something partially correct.
I would have used a 1/4" rebate bit [slot cutter] with a bearing on both the
molding and the ply and then inserted a 1/4"spline.
Why you ask, because every thing aligns perfectly all along the joint.
Changing cutters can result in joint misalignment, the biscuits work locally
,but in between possible misalignment can occur.
because of the thinness of the ply the face veneer, the surface of the
molding and the ply need to be perfect so when cleaning up the joint you do
not sand through.....mjh
I'll be doing something similar soon. Can you give more details for
Does the 1/4" mean height of the cut?
How deep does it go, or does it matter?
What splines do you use - just a 1/4" wide strip you ripped on the TS?
Does soft or hardwood matter for the spline?
Should the spline be exactly 1/4" or slightly smaller to allow for the
Do you leave a gap at the back of the slot for the same reason?
Biscuits are plenty. However, something you may or may not have considered.
Veneered plywoods tend to be a bit inconsistent in thickness. While this
normally does not show, wait until you put a piece hard wood up to it. You
will probably see the inconsistent high and low spots on the plywood. Yes,
you can sand the 2 surfaces after glue up but sometimes the veneer gets
I make a relief cut and or tiny rabbet all the way around each plywood
panel usually with the TS and about 1/16" wide by 1/16" deep. This will
create a nice visual detail along with dealing with the union of plywood to
Probably. When I put an edge on my shelving, I cut a rabbet in the
lip to give it more strength and more glue surface. The strength is
in the glue--allow more time to cure than you think (at least
The way I do it:
I glue a 4/4 piece of oak to the edge of the 3/4 plywood, clamping as
needed. After the glue cures I use a flush trim bit in my router to flush up
the 4/4 oak to the ply, will take some practice because you'll be using the
router base on the edge of the wood, trim router works better here. Then
clamp the piece down flat and route my profile on the strip of oak. works
great and if you watch the grain you can make it almost invisible.
"Edwin Pawlowski" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
A few very good tips here but one thing that can bite you in the buns is not
being very careful to remove excess
glue if you are going to be staining
your project. It can be invisible even
after careful sanding, but will show up
if you wipe water or laquer thinner over
the joint. Best to wipe off excess
right away after clamping, with a wet
rag, if its white glue.
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