5/4 x 6" yellow cedar boards Approx 600ft2 deck. will have a 3/16" gap
between boards. I'm looking for suggestions on how to attach them to the
joists. I refuse to face nail/screw for the sheer fact that I hate to look
at screw heads ect. I'm thinking of predrilling and toenailing down on a 45
between the boards and then using either screws or spiral nails (stainless
of course) anyone have any other ideas that i haven't thought of?
I think tonailing through the edge of a 5/4" board will give you lots
of splits and "daisies". I saw on some home improvement show, a system
of galvanized brackets that sit on top of the joists; you screw up through
them and into the bottom of the deck boards. Similar to a joist hanger
type idea. I can't recall the vendor, but it might have been "Hometime"
or "This old house" (with Nahm and Steve if that helps date it).
That said, I pre-drilled and face-screwed mine, and as long as you take
care to not have them wander all over the map, they're neither all that
objectionable, or even noticable. In any case, consider square drive
screws to avoid cam-out and the associated metal burrs and swearing.
There are lots of "hidden fastener" systems on the market today that will
allow you to do exactly what you want. DeckMaster and ShadoeTrack both make
galvanized or stainless steel "fastening strips" that attach to the joist
and provide a flange for attaching the decking material from the underside.
Eb-Ty (which we sell) and a few competitors such as IpeClip sell biscuit
shaped plastic parts that fit into either biscuit slots or grooves cut into
the decking. These products basically form a loose "tongue" that mimics the
function of the milled tongue on T&G boards. The advantage of the metal
strips is that removal of a single board is not difficult, as long as you
have access to the under side. The disadvantage is that all of the fastening
is done from the underside, which can be back breaking work if you don't
have stand-up access to the underside. The plastic biscuits such as Eb-Ty
are easily installed from the deck surface and automatically provide the
correct deck board spacing, but have the disadvantage that boards are not
easily replaced. In addition, they work best with relatively stable
materials such as Ipe or the manufactured deck boards like Trex. Materials
like pressure treated pine tend to shrink so much that the biscuit may pull
out of the wood. The Tiger-Clips and similar style "hammer installed"
metallic fasteners have a spotty reputation at best, and in fact are the
reason that DeckMaster was developed, as the inventor built an expensive
deck with the clips, then watched in horror as the boards shrank and the
clips pulled loose. I have never used the metallic clips, but believe based
on the design that I would only consider using them on something that I
didn't mind rebuilding.
If you would like more information, feel free to call my Tech Director,
Darin Lawrence, or check our web site.
Jim Ray, President
McFeely's Square Drive Screws
I've heard tell that some guys have sistered 2x2s onto the joists, then
screwed upward into the deck boards. Might wanna put some sort of spacer
between the 2x2 and the joists, though, to facilitate air circulation.