I'm borrowing a friend's Ryobi 3000 saw, rated at 13A. I was ripping
some 8/4 oak tonight, and I had to go pretty slow to keep it from
bogging down. Is this typical of any 13A TS? I'm shopping for a saw
of my own, and I was considering the new Ridgid for it's price and
features. But it has a 13A motor; the Jet Super Saw is rated at 14A.
Normally the more amperage, the more power... Sorta.....
More than anything a GOOD to premium quality blade will make more difference
than adding more power. Secondly a properly tuned and aligned saw. "NEW
ones normally need this adjustment also.
So what else is new?
Ripping 8/4 white oak is a tough job.
Have upgraded my Delta contractor's saw with a good rip blade and a larger
motor wired for 240 VAC for this task and it is still a slow cut job.
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
What size motor did you put on it?
I've thought about doing the same. However, the only time it slows down is
when ripping 6/4 or thicker. Most of the time it handles 6/4 quite well.
A proper rip blade makes a very dramatic improvement over a combination
blade. The smooth cutting combo blades (WWII or Tenryu) require considerably
more horse power to make the cut.
The difference between 13A and 14A is probably not significant. At the
theoretical level, thats only a 7-1/2 per-cent difference. In rated _input_
power. A few points difference in the 'efficiency' of the motor will
wipe out that difference. So will a difference in the sharpness of the blades.
Or the quality of the bearings used. Or a slight difference in
squareness/tuning. Etc., etc., ad nauseum.
I've got a Delta Contractor saw. The motor on it is rated 12.6A at 120V.
Haven't had occasion to try thick oak, but it doesn't have any problem with
The Ryobi motor is about as good as it gets for universal motors (most
benchtop and many contractor saws). Induction motors will get you some
more power, but (as Leon already noted) a good *ripping* blade will
produce a more noticable improvement than anything.
I rip 4x stock on my Ryobi on occasion, and I've learned to switch out
to an 18T ripping blade that is well sharpened before I start.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Scott) wrote in message
email@example.com (Hylourgos) wrote in
You'll notice the difference even with a 3 hp Unisaw, if you don't change
the blade, in ripping 8/4 oak. I've been leaving a 50T combo blade, full
kerf, installed in the saw lately, because it cuts most of what I do so
well. But Friday evening, I had a lot of rough oak lumber to mill, and I
was in a hurry, and didn't change out the blade. So now I get to use the
handplane to 'erase' some of the burn marks that the rip blade likely
wouldn't have left.
I wasn't even trying to save time. I just didn't think as completely as I
should have. The blade was in the rack, had I thought about it. And in
fact, I didn't think about it, until reading Hylourgos' post.
The SuperSaw has a 1 3/4 horse, TEFC, induction motor - so it delivers more
"power" than the Ryobi. I like my SuperSaw, so I won't be unloading it,
but -- in truth -- if I knew then what I knew now, I'd have spent my money
You would probably be better served with buying a Contractors saw rather
than the new Hybrid style saws. Accessories are way easier to find and tend
to be cheaper since you do not have to buy them from the manufacturer of
Someone else put it well - it's a "System". You'll not find alot of
aftermarket gear for it. Even Jet's own Tenoning Jig requires you to get
(free? buy?) an adaptor plate since one miter slot is too far from the
The offset fence rails annoyed me when I was making an aux router table.
Fortunately, the drop from back to front is about 3/4" so an extra slice of
MDF about nailed it.
The Infamous Timing Belt to raise/lower the blade seems like a design kludge
to me. It wasn't any fun replacing it either after 10 months.
I've got the basic outfit - 30", no sliding table. My wings are flat,
there's no run-out in, the miter slots are parallel. I had 115V in the
garage, space was at a premium. I needed PDG dust collection, etc.
Am I still happy with it? Yeah.
Is it still a better saw than I am wooddorker? You bet.
Do I wish I had bought the DeWalt instead? Nope!
Do I wish I had spent the same amount on a Delta Contractor w/ cast iron
wings and a Bies/Unifence? Sometimes.
Will I be selling it? Not anytime soon.
As I still believe "Tis' a Poor Carpenter that blames his tools." :)
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.