For my second woodworking project I built an oak cabinet to go over the
toilet. I didn't have the proper tools and the doors came out really
crappy. I got better tools (a saw that can actually make a 90degree cut and
the right router bits) and rebuilt them. The new ones looked great.
I build a matching towel cabinet on the other side of the bathroom for my
third project. Sadly, it does not match. The plywood panels in the doors
have significantly more prominent grain. Both cabinets look good, but they
I doubt this is possible, but I would like to replace the panels on the
toilet cabinet with the grainier plywood. Is there anyway to open the glued
frames up without destroying them? I really don't want to build new frames
when the old ones are perfect.
Any ideas? (other than trying to come up with some reason why I deliberately
did it that way? "The smaller doors needed more subtle grain!")
If you can manage to cut a groove/mortise through the top rail you can extract
the current panel and replace it. Or you can approach the door from the back
side by routing out the inside lip in the rails and stiles, replace the panel
the new panel in place with those glass door triangle things. Cheers, JG
Wade Lippman wrote:
JG suggest a couple of good ways to go.
In addition to his/her suggestions, if the door is a simple M&T frame, you
can also cut through the shoulders joints on one of the stiles - I'd suggest
the meeting stile, rather than the hanging stile, since it takes no strain -
using a very fine-bladed saw like a Japanese dozuki, which will remove
minimal waste. You can then slide out the panel, and replace it. You'd
then make the door good by refitting the removed stile with dowels, or
biscuits, or by cleaning out the original mortices in the stiles and letting
new false tenons into the rails using bridle joints (sometimes called open
M&T joints). This latter fix is very often used in furniture restoration to
recover M&T joints which have broken at or inside the joint.
Obviously this system won't work if your doors are put together with
scribe-and-profile joints. None of them will work if you've committed the
cardinal sin of gluing in the panel!
Another option would be to use a bearing guided rabbeting bit to route the back
of the door and remove the panel (using a chisel to get the corners). The new
panels can be secured by gluing or tacking on molding fabricated to match by
using the original tooling used to create the frame.
Buffalo, NY - USA
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