http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/popularmechanics/images/7E/tb_lg_plans-lg-1.jpg (Amazon.com product link shortened)90360479&sr=1-1
Thank you for all of the links/info. I saved a copy on my desktop. I've
recently been reading one you mentioned above: "Making Traditional
Wooden Planes", by Whelan. As you already know, he suggests that the
best way to make a plane is to already have one like the one you're
trying to make. I'll just have to ignore that little aside for now.
Roy, BTW, I was just re-reading a post you made here on 2/10/10 which
compared the "practicality" of Finck's book to that of Whelan's book.
Thus you can assume that I remember the differences between them that
you mentioned verbatim!
I will be making a spill plane, and will be doing the same as you. I have
never actually seen one in the flesh, and will be working from a drawing and a
I'd forgotten that post. Alzheimers kicking in again. I can take a hint and
will shut up now. Looks like you're standing on a highly greased steep slope
all on your own. Best of luck! Post pictures of whatever you buy or build.
Most of all, have fun. Life is too short not to.
I absolutely did not mean that at all! I always learn something from
your posts--keep them coming please! I just didn't want you to rework a
nicely written essay you already wrote when I could just repost it.
Here is is for everyone who is interested, it deserves a repost:
Subject: Re: 2 Books on wooden planes
Date: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 1:27 AM
>Making Traditional Wooden Planes, by John Whelan
>Making and Mastering Wooden Planes (Rev. Ed.), by David Finck
>Can anyone provide a short comparison or review of the 2 wooden hand
>plane books I mentioned at the top?
I have both books. As someone already mentioned, the Finck book
stresses Krenov style planes. The
author assumes the reader does have a great deal of expertise with hand
planes, and covers all the
fundamentals that apply to both metal and wooden planes There is a lot
of background info provided
as it takes until page 72 to start discussing building a plane and wraps
it up in 50 pages. The
last 50ish pages are devoted to plane and scraper techniques.
There are a lot of illustrations and photos, some in color. I
personally don't care for the
esthetics of the Krenov style plane, however, they work well and that is
the important point to most
people. The book does devote a good amount of space to tuning and
tweaking a wooden plane, and also
discussing technique. It also has a chapter on sharpening and using
scrapers. I have not done a
good job reading this book since I only have an electronic copy picked
up from one of the alt
groups, and I don't really like electronic books for serious study The
book is out of print and is
listed used on Amazon ranging from $65 to $141 plus shipping.
However, I have been working on catching up with unread messages, and
recently saw a post from a
Galoot on another list to alert us that Dave Finck has apparently self
published a new edition of
the book. You can buy it directly from him for $25. I need to order a
hard copy myself. His
blades are supposed to be very good too, but I have no first hand
experience with them. Good site
to browse while you're buying the book.
The Whelan book is not nearly as fancy as the Finck book. No glossy
photos, no color, no slick
paper. But it does have about 130 pages of good, solid instruction
about plane making. The author
assumes you are no beginner to woodworking and know something of the
care and feeding of wood
planes. The only introductory material consists of a few pages to make
sure the reader is aware of
the terminology,history and materials used by the old-timers. A
whopping four and a half pages are
devoted to tuning a wooden plane.
Page 17 starts with making a laminated (Krenov) style plane. Page 22
begins a two piece Jack plane,
and the rest of the book is devoted to traditional plane making methods
for another 17 or so
different planes. Additional types discussed are smoother, jointer,
bullnose, boxmaker, various
edge treatment planes, dado and various plow planes plus fences. The
instructions and drawings are
not particularly detailed. However, if you have a copy of the plane you
want to recreate in front
of you for reference, the discussion in the book is pretty clear. The
author states in the summary
that he hopes people will be creative, and not just copy, which is why
there are not detailed
If you're interested in building just one or two block or bench planes
in your life, you will not
need the Whelan book. However, if you are a Galoot at heart, you will
want, nay, need it. Then you
need to buy some more tools like floats and planemaker's saws and
chisels, which like clamps, are
always insufficiently inventoried.
Check out the following site for some beautiful hand made tools,
including planes. Derek is
extremely talented and energetic. Going through his site is a joy,
especially when you keep in mind
this is just his hobby, and only does this in his spare time. I don't
think he sleeps. Go to the
"Shopmade Tools" heading to see his planes. Check out the mesquite jack
plane way down at the
bottom of the list. Love the razee style.
Crap, I didn't mean to blather on. Buy both books. It's only money and
another couple steps down
that slope. There's a bunch of us already part way down the hill
waiting on you.
Thanks! I'm pretty sure I've got a few trips and falls ahead of me if
that what you mean! :)
Not a worry. I didn't take it that way. I am much more of a lurker than a
poster, and I realized I have been blathering more the last 3-4 days than I
usually do in 6 months. When I start repeating myself, it's time to drop back
into lurk mode and look for the experts here. A couple have waded in already,
and I'm surprised that several others have not.
Here's a link in case I'm wasn't the only one who doesn't know what a
"spill plane" is/does:
Roy must have a pretty complete tool collection for a "non-collector"!
Beginning with little more than intent, what a complex web we weave...
You can ask anyone here about the wiring and drywall skills I learned
here last summer... One of the longest threads on the Wreck..LOL. I'll
post a picture of the results after I paint. You helped bring me up to
speed on the Stanley 60, 60 1/2, 62, 62 1/2 block planes and a bunch of
other stuff. Bunch of fine folks here. I am however trying to get my
money back from one of them folks who sold me the mineral rights to 10
acres of swamp land in Arizona! ;) Having fun!
With the exception of the type 12, where the "tall" front knob was introduced.
The knobs are prone to breaking at the base, a problem that was mostly fixed
by the type 13 when Stanley altered the casting of the base to incorporate a
circular "receptacle" to receive the knob and protect it around its perimeter.
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
I don't have a type 12 in any size. I have a #5, #6 and #7 type 11 all with
the high front knob, but always thought those were replacements. All have the
smaller brass adjusting nut, so they are T11's. I don't suppose you'd have an
extra T12 or two setting around, would you? Anybody?
I actually do not collect planes. I ask this as more in the spirit of a, um,
No, I don't have any type 12 planes; mine are (almost) all type 11s, but I have
a couple of type 9s and 10s, and various later types (14-17) as well. Yours
all have three patent dates behind the frog? If so, they could be either type
11 or 12; I don't think the castings are any different between those two types.
Also, since all the rest of the parts are interchangeable it's not uncommon
to see "half-breed" variants of these types, and supposedly many of them came
from the factory that way, as the newer parts (tall front knob, larger depth
adjustment nut, modified lever cap, logo changes on the cutters) were staged in
to replace the old.
The front knobs on your planes could be replacements (in which case the
hold-down screw would have to be a replacement as well), but they just as
easily could be type 12s before Stanley ran out of small depth adjustment knobs
and switched to the larger version. Most type 11s also had the V-shaped logo
on the cutter.
I was pretty sure Stanley had introduced the "raised ring" receptacle into the
casting with the type 13, but I'm reading one of the "type studies" I've stowed
away and it claims that the ring was actually introduced with the type 14...
Once again, my memory ain't what it used to be. :-)
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
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