Ah yes, that problem!
We are the second occupiers of our house and originally the builders
installed an "up and over" wooden garage door.
When I finally grew tired of trying to repair it, in fact it reached a
point when I think it was beyond repair, I made myself a pair of
"conventional" side opening doors and gained myself a lot of extra space.
The original door was secured by a bolt and padlock down at the bottom
right and the handle was at ground level too. I now have a nice handle,
catch and mortice lock at elbow level - no more bending down to open the
The new doors keep out the weather and draughts better too.
What you need is a new garage door with windows in it. Put your lights
above the windows and they'll shine through! :-)
You can also cover the windows with blinds hinged at the top. When the
door opens, the blinds will uncover the windows and the light still can
shine through. :-)
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
Nine dual 4 foot 40 watt fluorescent fixtures is pretty good. It will
seem pretty bright, but could be better. I would put 12 or 15
fixtures in for overall lighting. The 9 fixtures will not be enough
to really light up the room. You will be able to see everything, but
it won't shine. You would still need task lighting to see. With 12
or better, 15, fixtures, you could eliminate the inconvenience of
turning on and off task lighting every time you move around the work
area. What an inconvenience.
My basement is split into two rooms. One about 19x29 and the other
25x32. About 550 and 800 square feet. The 550 side has 19 two bulb 4
foot 40 watt fluorescent fixtures. About 2.7 watts per square foot.
The 800 side has 18 two bulb 4 foot 40 watt fluorescent fixtures.
About 1.8 watts per square foot. Both rooms are bright. All walls
and floor are painted white. Until now I never realized one side was
so under lit compared to the other side. The way the room is setup
with the furnace and ductwork and supporting beam, I'm not sure I
could have squeezed in another row of lights. So it will have to do.
The question asker has 500 square feet lit by 9 lights so about 1.44
watts per square foot. Good but could easily be better. Your room is
480 square feet lit by 5 fixtures. Only 0.83 watts per square foot.
If the original question asker is putting in lights, I don't
understand why he would not put in plenty of lights. It takes minimal
extra work to install a few more. And if having light bothers you,
its easy to just remove the bulb. Less light, less electricity used,
and you still have the option of putting the bulb back in and getting
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 13:22:51 -0800 (PST), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
I'd put in lots of light - but "split density" - half of each light,
or every second light, on one switch, the other half on another switch
so you can have enough light to move around and do non-vision-critical
stuff with reduced lighting cost, and full bright light when you need
With dual ballast 4 lampers put the inners on one ballast (and
switch) and the outers on the second. Primary lighting would use the
outer tubes, full lighting all 4.
My garshop has sets of lights on separate switches. Sometimes I'll be
working somewhere else and leave a light on so I can see to get tools
without having to walk all the way around to the front door and turn the
It's really nice when the weather is poor. I can cut through the garage
rather than go around it.
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 20:19:28 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Yabbut, Bill doesn't want to tear up any fresh drywall and had only
planned on wiring half his shop ceiling to begin with! I'm hoping he
reconsiders both options as absolutely necessary to his eventual
I'm not a fan of 4-lampers. Too much light in one area, more
expensive to run.
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck
Yeah, the lights you suggested today--above the garage door, will
require a separate switch, as well as half of the others new ones (the
way I see it). I'm not afraid of cutting drywall. I'm just not going to
cut it in haste. The more I think about it, the more I think a little
cleverness in using my 1 new lighting cable that I have could go a long
way on this... Maybe the switch that it's on will become a "master"
switch. Unfortunately, my new insulation in the walls makes adding new
wall switches a "pain".
This just reinforces the notion that learning processes like this are
circular in nature.
I just happen to have 3 fluorescent fixtures on short chains (4100K
bulbs, I believe). One of them is portable. In the meantime I may
experiment with different bulbs and see what I can learn about light
As long as there are no "firestops" or crossbraces the insulation is
only a minor inconvenience. I pull comm cable into insulated steel
studded walls quite often. A lighted fish-tape makes it a lot easier,
I'll have to admit. (red LED on the end so you can see which side of
the hole it goes past when you shove it down the wall, )
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