I am building a TV Credenza out of 3/4" Maple plywood (Premium Grade). It will be approx 65"L X @22"D X 23"H. My question is what would be the best type of joint to use on these pieces? I was thinking Biscuit joiner, but I don't have a Biscuit Joiner (or plate joiner). Any Ideas? Thanks a bunch!
Biscuits can be used if you have a router and the appropriate wing cutter.
Lew
Need a bit more info....
Joints for what pieces (side members to top, face frame to carcass etc...)
Are you joining plywood edge to edge...
-nick
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
Need a bit more info....
Joints for what pieces (side members to top, face frame to carcass etc...)
Are you joining plywood edge to edge...
-nick
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
No joints edge to edge. Sides to top and then shelves inside. From the from it will be a simple rectangular box with 3 sections across. Each section will have 1 shelf in it.
Nicky wrote:
No joints edge to edge. Sides to top and then shelves inside. From the front it will be a simple rectangular box with 3 sections across. Each section will have 1 shelf in it.
Nicky wrote:
First, what are these pieces? Is it basically a box of just the plywood, or does it have a frame of solid wood? Second, what do you mean by best? Fastest, easiest, cheapest, strongest, longest-lasting? How much weight does this need to support, and will it get much abuse (i.e. play structure for kids)? Mortise and tenon (either loose tenons or traditional) would probably be on the stronger/longer-lasting side for a frame construction, and dovetails are probably strongest for a box (tho I'm not sure how they'd do with ply). Towards the faster/easier side, dowels or pocket holes are fairly quick/easy methods if you don't want to buy a biscuit cutter. Either of these would be facilitated with a jig (commercial @ $20-50 or more, or shop-made). If you're just using plywood, and you wanted even faster/easier, butt joints and a brad nailer would work, and you could add rabbets/dados and glue to this method for more strength. I would also think about a splined miter or a lock-miter (with appropriate router bit). What are your priorities for the final piece, and how much time and money do you have to spend on it? The answers to these questions should help guide your construction decisions. Good luck and have fun, and let us know what works well for you, Andy
Buy a 5/32" slot cutter for your router. Make two marks 3/4" apart, route from one to the other - it's just right for biscuits. In this case, it might not work unless the joinery is always right at the edge of the plywood (you can't route in the middle of a board)
Alternate idea: A shallow dado (maybe 1/16 - 1/8" and plugged pocket screws. I usually do bookshelves this way.
With a router and a 3/4" straight bit you can route dados on the sides and glue&nail the bottom and middle shelves into the dados. As far as the top I suppose it's laid on top of the sides. Hence from load bearing point of view any technique will work since the load is from the top (as long as it doesn't fall apart when you lift the credenza by the edge of the top).
A lot of the strength of a biscuit joint comes from the biscuit filling the slot completely. Too deep/wide a slot is no good. Using the router slot, will not let you do that unless you buy/make biscuits with the exact radius of the slot-ends.
Profile-wise, it's not a perfect fit, but it's very close. I've never had a problem with a biscuit failing because I cut the slot that way, and I've found that using the router results in better board alignment (table tops) than my biscuit cutter can provide.
The thickness of the slot is essentially exact, though. Finger pressure or light mallet taps to seat the biscuits.
If it were me ....
Dados for the top to bottom section partions. Dados for the side to side shelfs Dados or Rabbits for the top to side joint.
How will you cover the exposed ply? Or will you "celibrate the joint."
I've seen the other posts that are suggesting alternates to not having a biscuit jointer. I think this post is for and alternate to biscuits.
When building boxes out of ply materials, I use rabbits and dados. I've also used simple butt joints (glued, screwed.)
Any other other methods?
-nick
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
My friend owns a high end cabinet shop near Beverly Hills. He warned me: "Whatever Biscuit Joiner you buy, use only Lamello Biscuits."
He said they are produced to exacting standards, and I've had good luck them. In fact, now that the Festool Domino will soon be available here in the U.S. I was considering it. But my joints with biscuits are coming out so well, I'll save my $800.
I tried to break a few joints I'd made i n scrap 2x4s and couldn't. Just cut your slots carefully.
Gary Curtis
My friend owns a high end cabinet shop near Beverly Hills. He warned me: "Whatever Biscuit Joiner you buy, use only Lamello Biscuits."
He said they are produced to exacting standards, and I've had good luck them. In fact, now that the Festool Domino will soon be available here in the U.S. I was considering it. But my joints with biscuits are coming out so well, I'll save my $800.
I tried to break a few joints I'd made i n scrap 2x4s and couldn't. Just cut your slots carefully.
Gary Curtis
Let's tell the truth about this, for once.
A biscuit joint is not a joint.
A biscuit joint is an alignment device.
A biscuit joint is a registration device.
That's it.
It has very little value in comparison to true joinery.
Get over it.
Regards,
Tom Watson (Fairly Unbalanced)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
joint ?noun 1. the place at which two things, or separate parts of one thing, are joined or united, either rigidly or in such a way as to permit motion; juncture. 2. a connection between pieces of wood, metal, or the like, often reinforced with nails, screws, or glue.
Thanks everyone for your input. Since it is difficult for me to describe what I am trying to do. Look at the following like. This is a sketch-up of what I am doing. I will leave the edges exspoed as I think they look nice when sanded and covered with a clear enamel /laquer etc. Plus, the naked edges will be close in color to my speakers and I think it will help tie it together. THe casters are not preset in the sketch-up, but they will be on the stand.
Thanks a bunch again!
all 3/4" Maple Plywood.
I should also note that the shelves will be adjustable with holes/pins, so, not joint will be necessary,
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
Right
Wrong.
A biscuit adds to the strength of the joint. No arguing that. It also helps align/registre a joint. But it is stronger than the simple butt-joint would be without the cookies. Is it elegant? Nope. Do a few carefully applied biscuits do as good a job as a tenon? Yes.
See Miller for cites.
rBased on your sketch which basically describes an "H" laid on its side complete with end caps, let me suggest the following:
Use dado construction to line up the vertical panels into the top and bottom, then use adjustable shelf pins to support the shelves.
Leave the biscuits in the storage can for a future job.
BTW, you are going to need a lot of open time to get all the clamps set in place. I'd use epoxy, unless you have a lot of help.
BTDT
Lew
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