design my box

[Limp Arbor]

I need to build a box for SWMBO. It will be used for storing poster boards, maps, etc. She currently has them stored in a cardboard box similar to this:

'm thinking of using 1/4" plywood and reinforcing the corners on the outside using molding like this: angle is also a possibility but then I'd probably need to use bolts to hold it together.

The ideal box would have no internal fastners to snag the corners of the posters. I would probably put a low profile wheel on the bottom of one corner and a foot on the other with a handle up high for pulling.

She said "I don't want it to be heavy" but the cardboard box is probably 40lbs when full so weight isn't really an issue.

If I use the wood molding on the outside: any ideas on how to clamp it? do you think it will hold up?

Any better ideas?

[Lee Michaels]

> I'm thinking of using 1/4" plywood and reinforcing the corners on the

I would not rely on molding for structural integrity.

What I have done on a few occaisions is to simply make a box by using some kind of solid wood for the sides with plywwod for the top/bottom. Cheap and fast, use some pine for the sides. You can either nail and glue the plywood to it. Or use screws.

Although this not apply to what you are trying to do, Ihave even used 2 X stock on some big, strong boxes using this technique. But that would not apply to your situation. 1 X stock should be just fine.

How pretty does it have to be? Can you go solid and utilitarian? Or does it has to be "furniture"?

[Steve Turner]

I've built a bunch of plywood boxes using lock miter joints cut on the router, and they've all turned out incredibly well. I doubt you'd be able to do it with 1/4" plywood, but 1/2" baltic birch is plenty thick enough and would work beautifully; I've done plenty of them with regular construction grade 1/2" plywood as well and they've all worked out great. Lock miters are the perfect joint for this task, and you get clean strong joints with no clumsy reinforcing pieces required.

[Chrisgiraffe]

I would avoid using 1/4 ply because it's very thin/flexible unless i had a solid wood base (skeleton) to hang it on. 1/4 doesn't like to take nails and doesn't have much end to glue to. I would go with 1/2" ply instead. Some take issue with the ends of ply but if those are finely sanded and varnished they look pretty good (Danish style). There are many ways to cover the ends that might be decorative. You'd mentioned molding. You can find decorative moldings of all kinds from a hobby store (e.g. Michael's) or you can get creative and add your own. I'd consider aluminum flashing. It's very inexpensive and easy to work with and can add a nice touch set agasint the grain of the ply.

If weight is an issue you could build a box out of long solid wood stips in a lattice, say with 1/2" spacing.

[Limp Arbor]

So simple! I should have thought of that.

I can use 1x8 Pine for the narrow sides and the bottom and the 1/4 ply for the big sides. I can even get fancy and make a 1/4 x 5/8 rabbit on the edges of the Pine to hide the end grain of the plywood. This also addresses any issues with mounting the wheel and handle.

Not fancy, but I wouldn't make it out of CDX. She can cover it with contact paper or paint it if she doesn't like the look.

[Lee Michaels]

"Limp Arbor" wrote

Not fancy, but I wouldn't make it out of CDX. She can cover it with contact paper or paint it if she doesn't like the look. ====================================

Or give it a quick coat of stain. She can put something (wax, poly, etc) over that if she wishes.

[Larry C]

I would avoid using 1/4 ply because it's very thin/flexible unless i had a solid wood base (skeleton) to hang it on. 1/4 doesn't like to take nails and doesn't have much end to glue to. I would go with 1/2" ply instead. Some take issue with the ends of ply but if those are finely sanded and varnished they look pretty good (Danish style). There are many ways to cover the ends that might be decorative. You'd mentioned molding. You can find decorative moldings of all kinds from a hobby store (e.g. Michael's) or you can get creative and add your own. I'd consider aluminum flashing. It's very inexpensive and easy to work with and can add a nice touch set agasint the grain of the ply.

If weight is an issue you could build a box out of long solid wood stips in a lattice, say with 1/2" spacing.

Not sure if this is for a classroom but I saw the teacher link. I have made a couple of these kinds of boxes for the local elementary school. One thing I do when it is going to be in contact with kids is a round over every possible edge, even the bottom edges you would think little hands can't get to you. I used glue and screws with corner molding over that. The bottom was in a dado.

I love the look of the lock joint though. Never thought of the wheel idea - next one I make will have that.

Larry C

[luigirecnorm]

I would make it using dado & rebate joints (rabbets to the Americans, rabbits to the illiterates). with 1/4 ply, you could make your dado & rebates 1/7" wide.

Luigi

[Lew Hodgett]

It's a box so why not a simple box joint for the vertical corners?

Piece of cake for 1/4 ply.

Let the bottom rest on some 1/2x1/2 strips glued to sides under box bottom.

Glue bottom to 1/2x1/2 strips.

Want to get fancy?

Half lap the corners of the 1/2x1/2 strips.

Lew

[HeyBub]

> I'm thinking of using 1/4" plywood and reinforcing the corners on the

You probably want something like a map or blueprint file. Here's a bunch.

see them for free from time to time on Craigslist.

[David Merrill]

Somebody has to speak up in this poor teacher's defense. I seriously doubt that "weight isn't really an issue"; 1/2" plywood -- OMG!!!!

How about gluing your proposed wood moldings to the outside edges of the $10.99 cardboard box with neat joints(maybe dowel reinforced)smoothly rounded on the corners. Then apply your caster and handle idea or find one of these that is affordable (I see them in thrift stores sometimes) and of a suitable size:

In deciding the location of the wheels consider whether the case needs to negotiate stairs, doorways, irregular pavement, etc.

David Merrill

> I'm thinking of using 1/4" plywood and reinforcing the corners on the