I am new to woodworking and I am in the process of building a workbench
using 22 2"*4"*8' to create a 33"*8' benchtop * 4" thick.
having had to buy glue 3 time during this project (it's crazy how much glue
you need!) I realize that there is 2 type of glue:
- glue that dries white
- glue that dries yellow
What is the difference between the 2?
Also, I am working in my un-heated garage, and the temperature is in the 40s
there. Did I just vase my 22 2*4 by glueing them at such a low temperature?
It is my experience that Yellow glues are usually stronger then white glues,
have a shorter open time , set up faster and are more resistant to water and
other solvents. It has also been my experience that they set up better in
cold weather then white glues. Both will make a joint stronger then the
wood you are glueing up so don't worry there. I have made successful glue
joints at temp in the 40's so you should be ok, just allow for a longer set
up time by a factor of 2 or 3.
Buy your glue by the gallon and rebottle it, saves a lot of money.
For temperature, glue has a thing called "chalk point" temperature.
Below this temperature it won't work properly. Most glues are somewher
near 50 degrees. I thinbk the new tight bond III has a lower chalk
point as one of it's features. I'm not sure it is as low as 40.
I honestly don't know that if you glue below chalk point the glue
doesn't work, or if it just won't dry until the temp raises. We'll need
more expertise to chime in on that one.
All that being said, I glued up for years at the 45-50 point because I
do a lot of work at night. I never had a problem and the type of stuff
I was doing would clearly have shown a problem (panels w/no biscuit or
spline, etc.) Since I've learned about chalk point I've been more
careful. I have to believe it has to get way below the specified chalk
point and I have a theroy that the clamp pressure and catalytic action
of the glue can raise the temp 5-10 degrees in the joint.
I've used Titebond III in the upper 30's without any problems. Titebond II
will form a little bit of visible white chalk around 40C for me.
Titebond II bottle recommends 55F and Titebond III bottle recommends 45F.
Someday I need to get a better heater system in my Colorado gara^H^H shop.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 14:55:23 GMT, "cyrille de brébisson"
Carpenter's glue is usually yellow and formulated specifically for
wood. I try to buy enough glue so that it gets used up in 12 months.
Keep it from freezing. Forty sounds a bit cool for wood glue, 60 is
better. At the cooler temperatures curing will take longer. What
does the manufacturer recommend?
Hadn't noticed question on temperature at first...the chalk temperature
(point at which it won't dry and hold) will be in the 50s I believe.
The Type III exterior glue is about the lowest I know at about 47F.
For general use, either white or yellow is plenty strong enough w/ a
well prepared joint to be stronger than most woods along the grain.
Just avoid the really cheap "kiddy" white glues...
There is a difference contrary some of the responses. They
are not the same. Everything that I have read points to
white glue as the one glue with a high temperature fault;
joints can slowly pull apart. That is, if the glue joint is
such that it tends to pull apart by tension or gravity,
white glue may let the parts slowly move. In your case that
probably isn't a factor. And of course the white type is
very water soluble while yellow type is somewhat water
resistant. Both the yellow and the white will set at
temperatures in the 40s and 50s just more slowly than at a
higher temperature. You do buy glue by the gallon (or
whatever similar amount) don't you? Glue in the jug
shouldn't be allowed to freeze, the white and yellow
(carpenters) glues last for a long time. I'm using the last
from a jug I bought at least 15 years ago. Others may try
to tell you that it has a short shelf life, but at at temps
under 100 F and above 32 F, that just isn't true.
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