If you think 320W of fluor against 4 pure white walls and pure white ceiling and floor is a "poorly lighted cave", you need to see your opthalmologist, boy.
Like I said, I hate the extra glare off my glasses. Could I borrow some of your blinders, sir?
-- Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right, but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks. -- Jimmy Wales
Gosh, I need to print this out and think about it. By the way, I was going to thread the romex through the attic. I've already installed a new switch on the wall, and have 12-2 running through the switch with plenty up in the attic just for this application. You've raised enough issues to make me pause to think. I need to get to work, but I'll be back. Thanks. Bill
Planning four T8-32W 2-bulb fixtures running in parallel from 1 hot through a switch.
Anything inherently wrong with this model? Strobe effect?
I'm going to try shopping for lighting in some places besides BORGS.
Thanks, Bill
Perhaps you're shopping at a better class of Menard's store -- my most recent expereince was W 38 & I-465... When I first moved to Indy 35 years ago*, I lived just a couple blocks from there. Guess you could say the area has declined somewhat.
*Damn! where does the time go?
The Menards I usually go to is in Greenwood. It's only a mile or two from there to Home Depot and Meijers, so they are probably reminded that they have competition. I've just been in that part of town for a year and a half; 12 years in IN.
Bill
Nope. The nice thing about fluor fixtures is that you can move them around and add more if necessary. Mine are on 2" chains from a higher, (9') ceiling. If you get the style with the reflector, they can be bent out some to allow a better distribution of the light in the shop, too. Put them on a carpeted area and apply a forearm or crepe-soled shoe and they uncurl pretty easily.
If you notice a strobe effect (highly doubtful and extremely RPM dependent) just add an incan task lamp there.
Bueno idea, señor Bill.
-- Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right, but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks. -- Jimmy Wales
On 10/28/2010 9:11 AM, Larry Jaques wrote: The nice thing about fluor fixtures is that you can move them
Hmmm..my ceiling are 9' too. I hadn't considered using chains. I assume you mean chains that are 2 feet in length above?
I thought about it in my sleep, evidently. I woke and it occurred to me hat the "best" way to power my fixtures may be to install two duplex outlets on the perimeter of my attic, and plug them in there. That's much like Lew suggested, except my wiring would be in the attic.
Assume that the 5' cords on the fixtures don't quite reach (especially possible with a 2' chain). I assume it's preferable to install a longer cord on the fixture than to use an extension cords. I'm not sure why I believe this--except that certain pieces of machinery are recommended to be powered directly (no plug). Of course, lighting amperages being very small, this may be like comparing apples and oranges. Are the fixtures generally designed so that one can replace the cord (easily) with a screwdriver (or would you use extension cords)?
Thanks, Bill
Depends upon the fixture you buy, some have cords, some are designed for direct wiring. I'd go with the chains and direct wire them, use BX armoured cable and tie wrap it to the chain.
They came with chains and metal grates, which I've bumped a couple times. And that's two inches, not feet. They hug the ceiling.
I had a duplex pointing down from the ceiling, and there was a quad box on top (filled with insulation, unfinished attic) to which I added outlets. I knocked holes in the sheetrock and pulled the plugs for the lights through, then sealed the holes. If I had it to do over, I'd have added that quad beneath, facing the shop, and let the fixture wiring show. Replacement would have been much easier in the future.
It wouldn't have fit with 2', but the 2" hug keeps them out of my way and gave me enough cord.
Yeah, just plug and play.
Yes, cord replacement is a snap. Pair of pliers to remove the strain relief, a couple wire nuts, and a ground screw.
-- Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right, but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks. -- Jimmy Wales
It's nice to get the benefit of the voice of experience.
The only thing that makes me hesitate is my finished ceiling. If I install duplex outlets in the ceiling, they will necessarily be "cut in box" variety that attach to the drywall, and I can see myself replacing the ceiling within the next 10 years. I'll have to wait for the dust to settle and see what I think. A few minutes ago, I was thinking, excitedly, gosh I'm going to have Lights AND Electric. : ) Reminds me of the kind of thinking that must have taken place in the early part of the 20th century. Maybe I'll even have Plumbing someday! ; )
Thanks, Bill
HEY, DIDN'T YOU JUST LEARN TO DO DRYWALL? Ya wuss.
Yer a newfangled thinker, Biyull.
Right you are, Bill. A 10' section of 2" ABS will drain 90% of your problems away into the yard at a very low cost!
-- Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right, but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks. -- Jimmy Wales
Just a 16 or 24 inch section, for each outlet, huh? Except for the mudding part, at least this is something I could do during the cooler temps (dipping to the low 30's here recently). FrozenNorth's idea of using armored cable was interesting too. I think I need to take some more measurements and choose my fixtures before I decide.
Thanks, Bill
Was just reading the FWW Tools & Shops annual issue, and they liked the "wraparound" design because it was easier to keep the lens clean than the bulbs. Everyones MMV.
I've spent the last 4 hours studying fluorescent lighting, culminating with running the ("free") Visual Basic program from Lithonia. Somehow they seem like THE company in the lighting fixture business.
When I first added my lights in my model, I thought I was overdoing it, now not so much! ; )
Thanks, Bill
When you first wrote that I thought 1 luminaire was a 4' bulb. Now I think you mean(t) 1 luminaire is a fixture with two 4' (32w) bulbs. Starting to feel like I'm making more out of this than there is, but I don't want to be disappointed when I flip that switch.
%)
Bill
-------------------------------------- Yee gads, given half a chance you would f*ck up a wet dream.
Take your choice, bust your ass and run romex in the attic using single gang recessed wall boxes in the ceiling /w/ duplex receptacle and cover plate on 60" centers, or stay out of the attic along with any insulation it contains and surface mount receptacle boxes interconnected with conduit.
Either way, the 5 ft cord and plug is considered a molded pigtail that is used as is.
Mount the fixtures as high as possible in order to have the most uniform lighting at 36" above the floor.
Chains and screw hooks will get the job done, if that is what you like.
Good grief man, it ain't rocket science.
Lew
You can dust bulbs from the floor with a duster. You have to climb onto a ladder and hang over obstacles to get to lenses, even if they didn't suck light from the room.
They do a lot of business. They're in business to sell LOTS of lighting fixtures, too, so caveat emptor.
I think the NEC wants enough room to work in front of the panels, not necessarily above it. But what an inspector thinks is more important. Ask yours, since he'll be signing it off. I can't imagine why anyone would put a fixture that close to the wall, though.
-- Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right, but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks. -- Jimmy Wales
If you go with Lew's recommendation, I hope you put alternate fixtures on a separate switch. That way you can have nice lighting or GAWD THAT'S BRIGHT! at the flip of an extra switch.
If you have 5 rows, put rows 2 and 4 on the second switch.
But task lighting (for those little 'gotta be bright' tasks) is much cheaper and easier in both the short and long runs, and both in initial cost and electrical cost. YMMV
-- Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right, but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks. -- Jimmy Wales
I already (this summer) installed a single wall switch for all of the fixtures and run wire to and around the attic. It would be nice if each fixture had a pull-chain switch so I could be energy efficient in my general use of lighting. I learned alot about fluorescent bulbs, and how important reflection is this week (both in the walls and ceiling, and in the fixtures).
Thanks, Bill
It wouldn't be hard to add another switch and reroute the wiring, would it? One Saturday morning would do it.
How often would you like to do that? Wouldn't a switch be nicer? One feed, two strings of lights, not a problem.
Another problem you might find is that many good manufacturers don't put pull-chains in their fixtures.
That's why I went with pure white paint, and did the ceiling and floor white, too. It makes a significant difference.
Now, the floor is covered with both sawdust and too much STUFF to even be seen.
-- Most people assume the fights are going to be the left versus the right, but it always is the reasonable versus the jerks. -- Jimmy Wales
HA, HA, HA!!! You tear me up!
Yeah, not a problem for you! :) Actually, I have 2 other fluorescent fixtures powered by my main-panel, rather than my sub-panel, which I regard as my back-up system. I would do what you suggested except it would confuse my wife... I'm not sure I could even field the question: why are there two more light switches on the wall? :)
That's good info to know. No switches, in general, huh?
Happy Friday, Bill
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