From how I understand it the extra pair of inserts help to reduce vibration in the blade in the cutting area. Basically the blade is more stable as the blade enters the lower inserts of the upper guide. The ceramic thrust is located between the upper and lower guide inserts.
Or it could be another example of if 2 work good 4 should work 2 times better. ;~) Either way it seems that this guide system works very well by comparison to the competition.
I feel like I lucked out. I bought the non-x5 delta 14" band saw, the one with the aluminum wheels and the rounded base. Mine was straight and adjusted correctly right out of the box. The only problem I've noticed is that the blade detensioning lever bumps into part of the frame as you move it. It's sort of like they should have bent the lever out an inch or so. The lever kind of slips past it easily so it's not a problem. Just sort of a stupid design. After buying an 8" dj-20 copy jointer from grizzly, I'm really wondering why I should buy delta at all anymore. My griz jointer was literally perfect out of the box, and with a bigger motor and pedistal mounted switch, for half the price. Sounds like delta is the new craftsman.
brian
I understand now. I was looking at the subject line and didn't read through that you were looking at 16-18 inchers. Plus, I'm not a BS owner yet, so I haven't gone through the Iturra catalog - although I do have it, just in case!
That's what I was wondering - what you meant about "10 contact points".
JP
Here is a link to a picture of the Laguna guides.
Strange as it may be, I found that metals cast in Taiwan, China, Korea are just not very good compared to the US, German or Canadian-made metals (I don't know why). Today it is more difficult to find quality machines made in the USA due to all of the outsourcing. Sadly, manufacturing in the US can't compete with China. I have a grinder stand made in China--it's cheap for sure but does the job. I'd steer clear of a China-made machine, though.
Mine was aligned out of the box too, and I don't have that problem with the lever - it *is* bent out an inch or so on mine. I do find it takes too much tension off leaving the blade flopping around if I just want to detension not change the blade, so I've taken to wedging a stick in between the casting to stop it near vertical.
-Leuf
:> Thanks :>
: What do you want to do with it?
: 2 weeks ago I returned a Rikon 18" saw after waiting for it for 2 months. : That saw was not up to what I think it should be and needed constant : tweaking.
Can you expand? I was thinking of getting one.
-- Andy Barss
DAGS google's groups for a recap. He didn't like the roller bearings.
er
Taiwan is getting better, slowly, but Chinese steel is a shocker. I own a Chinese made stainless steel fish smoker, bought at a megastore. The thing rusted within 3 weeks, sitting on a shelf in a dry shed :-( just as soon as it was removed from the plastic bag with the desiccant. Every bit of Chinese steel I have owned has the average strength of tin foil and rusts like no other metal short of elemental Sodium. 2"x 8 gauge screws that snap their heads before they're half into the predrilled wood ...
Them Chinese must think we're really really dumb.
-P.
Or that's what the "value engineering" project manager specified.
Here in CT, we have a scenic railroad that runs a Chinese steam locomotive that's been "re-detailed" to look like old American iron.
The locomotive is 17 years old and has never failed to pass an FRA or insurance company inspection. It was purchased new in 1989.
Nope ... it's the homeboy MBA's, lawyers and politicians who know you are.
As Enoch rood indicated, I do not like style roller bearings that came with it. They would unadjust as you tightened up the hex bolt. When cutting green wood the dust would stick to the blade and bang against the roller bearings creating more vibration and noise. Oddly the only blades that would track and not move forward and backward were the cheap ones. Timber wolf blades did badly. I think Timberwolf did badly because they were low tension. The upper wheel on the saw would wobble a bit left to right when in operation. This too can cause the problem mentioned. The saw with the 2hp motor could resaw 6" wide Oak and 8 " diameter logs effortlessly but the tracking issue and adjustments not staying put was unacceptable for me. I want to cut veneers and tracking is going to be important. I am plan to go with he Laguna 16HD for about 2 times more money or the Minimax MM16 in the same price range as the Laguna. Had I been able to try the Rikon before the purchase I probably would have not bought it in the first place. For equal comments about the top wheel wobble, the 18" Delta has that problem also, at least the new one at the dealer did. The Rikon looks great and the fit and finish is almost perfect but I am looking for a better saw.
I noticed it was loose also, but it hasn't caused me any problems. When I retension, it always goes back to tracking right on the first try.
brian
I am not defefending the grade stainless steel that they used but leep in mind that there are several grades of stainless steel and some will rust.
They may think that but if the product is marketed and or designed by an American company the Chinese are simply following orders. Who they build for dictates the quality and grade of materials used.
Well, there is one small group of lawyers and politicians here in GA who are now unemployed as a result of their decision to mess with what they _thought_ was a dumb mechanic. Karma got them in the end. (That and a large quantity of pro se briefs and squeaking wheels...)
Sometimes, very seldom, mind you, they receive a rude surprise when stepping on someone who stands in their way. But they DO seem to be rude, arrogant, selfish SOB's with little to no discernable soul.
I haven't found a good solution for the "crap" products on the market, however - other than perhaps to roll your own and buy "vintage" goods.
And here I though I was the only suspicious, curmudgeon around here... (Although I tend to think of it as pragmatism.)
Greg G.
Damn ... guess I'm gonna have to get even more blunt. ;)
No, you're OK. ;-) What strikes me most about my own encroachment into the realm of curmudgeon-ness is that is it provoked by the many lessons in life that proved that being a "nice guy" was far less effective or expeditious than being, as you put it, blunt. Give 'em an inch...
Greg G.
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