12" blade on a Unisaw?

assuming you gain the extra 2" capacity fully, which would mean you actually are able to raise the blade all the way up - you're still not double the capacity of the 10" blade. therefore, anything you can cut in one pass with the 12" blade you can cut in 2 passes with the 10". I would say using a splitter and cutting twice is a better idea than having no splitter and cutting once, especially if you're talking about 4"+ thick boards.

Mike

"Mike in Mystic" wrote in news:5BQlc.1144$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr15.news.prodigy.com:

Don't we use bandsaws for these things - occaisional cutting of thick stock? Or bowsaws? Or other handheld saws?

I'd rather not mess with the innards of a cabinet saw without a really good reason, and this isn't one of them.

Are you perchance a friend of Ralph Engermann's?

Patriarch

"patriarch snipped-for-privacy@nospam.comcastDOTnet" I'd rather not mess with the innards of a cabinet saw without a really good

I guess I'm the kind of guy who would rather mess with things.

Who's he?

I miss that guy, I wonder where he's been?

Barry

By the way, going from a 10" to a 12" would only yield 1" extra depth capacity.

NoOne

Going to a 12" blade will also increase the speed of the teeth of the blade. I am not a math person, but it will make a difference, and should be considered.

Yeah that's just on the top. You get another inch on the bottom. Ralph Engerman R E Quick Transit

Toolmiser rightly states:

Ayup. What should really be considered is that if you want a 12" blade cabinet saw, it is best to go with a 12" blade cabinet saw, so the design is coherent and reasonably safe.

I'm not exactly sure what might happen if you tilt a 12" blade on a Unisaw, even after adapting it, but I do know for sure that I do NOT want to be in the room when it is tried.

Grizzly's got a 12" tablesaw that will ship anywhere in the U.S. for 1625 or so bucks. I think you can go really hog wild and add $150 to that to get a 14".

Check the price of good blades, first, though.

Charlie Self "Don't let yesterday use up too much of today." Will Rogers

Yeah, It's a waste of time. I doubt you would gain an inch. It would be way faster to just turn the stock over and run it through again rather than attempt what you propose. Easier on the blade and the saw too. Unless you have about a mile of ripping to do. In which case you need a bigger saw.

mike

And that would probably lead to burning more wood.

Have a Glorious Day with all of God's Blessings

I can throw 44" Monster Mudders under my Jeep Cherokee too...doesn't make it a good idea and breakage is a matter of "when", not "if".

Rob

You're also adding an extra inch to the "lever arm" that the motor has to torque against, so the wood will provide a greater resistance each time a tooth impacts the wood. (I think; I'd have to think this through a bit more to be really confident I'm not just blowing smoke.) As a result, the saw may slow down a bit as it encounters more resistance from the wood (which puts greater stress on the motor as a result of this greater resistive torque). Though in the end, this may not make much difference at all -- I'm feeling a bit lazy at the moment and don't want to break out a calculator and some graph paper :-)

-Steve

Do you have a real need for the 1 inch increase in cutting depth? If so, how about cutting out a 12" disk from cardboard, then mounting it on the saw arbor for a real check of your clearance. If it looks OK, you could then try out a real blade.

B a r r y wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Hey! Ralph's back!

Patriarch

Good thought but the bigger blade would probably not offer any more resistance than a full set of stacked dado blades. Or a dull blade for that matter.

I can't argue with that. (But, but, but... what about a full set of dull

Le> Good thought but the bigger blade would probably not offer any more

you'll need extra gerbils for that....