I was just looking at the innards of my Unisaw and it seems to me that a 12"
blade would fit if I removed the splitter bracket and shortened the spacers
for the dust shield. I guess a 12" blade would not go below the table when
lowered all the way, but that would not be a problem if I only put it on for
an occasional job.
Any of you done this? Can you see any reason not to try it?
assuming you gain the extra 2" capacity fully, which would mean you actually
are able to raise the blade all the way up - you're still not double the
capacity of the 10" blade. therefore, anything you can cut in one pass with
the 12" blade you can cut in 2 passes with the 10". I would say using a
splitter and cutting twice is a better idea than having no splitter and
cutting once, especially if you're talking about 4"+ thick boards.
Don't we use bandsaws for these things - occaisional cutting of thick
stock? Or bowsaws? Or other handheld saws?
I'd rather not mess with the innards of a cabinet saw without a really good
reason, and this isn't one of them.
Are you perchance a friend of Ralph Engermann's?
Ayup. What should really be considered is that if you want a 12" blade cabinet
saw, it is best to go with a 12" blade cabinet saw, so the design is coherent
and reasonably safe.
I'm not exactly sure what might happen if you tilt a 12" blade on a Unisaw,
even after adapting it, but I do know for sure that I do NOT want to be in the
room when it is tried.
Grizzly's got a 12" tablesaw that will ship anywhere in the U.S. for 1625 or so
bucks. I think you can go really hog wild and add $150 to that to get a 14".
Check the price of good blades, first, though.
"Don't let yesterday use up too much of today." Will Rogers
You're also adding an extra inch to the "lever arm" that the motor has
to torque against, so the wood will provide a greater resistance each
time a tooth impacts the wood. (I think; I'd have to think this through
a bit more to be really confident I'm not just blowing smoke.) As a
result, the saw may slow down a bit as it encounters more resistance
from the wood (which puts greater stress on the motor as a result of
this greater resistive torque). Though in the end, this may not make
much difference at all -- I'm feeling a bit lazy at the moment and don't
want to break out a calculator and some graph paper :-)
Yeah, It's a waste of time. I doubt you would gain an inch. It would
be way faster to just turn the stock over and run it through again
rather than attempt what you propose. Easier on the blade and the saw
too. Unless you have about a mile of ripping to do. In which case you
need a bigger saw.
Do you have a real need for the 1 inch increase in cutting depth? If
so, how about cutting out a 12" disk from cardboard, then mounting it
on the saw arbor for a real check of your clearance. If it looks OK,
you could then try out a real blade.
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