I need to make a couple of 1/4" solid cherry panels. I have never done this
before because I usually buy plywood when I need 1/4" panels.
My panels are 18.5" wide by 14.5" long. I was planning on making 4 boards
per panel for the glue-up to get the required width.
Are there any tricks to getting a flat panel out of a 4 board glue-up for
1/4" panels? How should I apply clamping pressure and should I NOT glue
them up all at once?
I like to edge joint thin panels in pairs with a hand plane. Just as
some folks do with thicker panels, fold the panels like a book and
plane them together. You'll only need a pass or two after power
jointing. Even a block plane will do. I find a sharp hand plane much
easier and more accurate than my jointer on thin stock.
I glue them with waxed cauls across the middle, and the edges aligned
by trapping them between clamped melamine blocks. I'd scrape the glue
line with a carbide scraper, followed by a card scraper or my drum
I don't get crazy with the pressure. Sometimes, I'll do two and two.
Try it without glue and see if all four boards are too much of a pain.
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
The reason that we have raised panels is not because they look nice,
although they do, but because the old timers used this method when
making a panel. They beveled the perimeter so that it would fit in
the housing and turned the beveled face towards the less public face.
I wouldn't want to glue up 1/4" panels of the size described and would
use the raised panel method.
Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
If the 1/4" is fully housed, it may not be a problem.
If it's not, I'd want the bigger glue line and the stability that
comes with the thicker panel.
Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
He means stuck in a frame. To keep the panel flat when it wants to warp.
There is no problem making a 1/4" panel of the size you want, the problem is
in keeping it flat. Embedding it in a frame will keep it flat *IF* the
frame is strong enough to resist the warping.
What Barry said .... adding that it's nice if you can start with boards that
are a bit longer and wider than you need and after you're satisfied with
your panels, trim them to project dimensions.
In addition, and FWIW, I'd probably do two glue-up's for each panel (2
boards per). This gives you a better chance for flat panels with thinner
Don't forget that if you start with over dimensioned stock, as above, you
will have ample chances to re-rip your joints on a table saw and start over
if you have less than desirable results the first time around.
This also holds true for thickness, as you can plane (hand or machine) to
final thickness, usually giving you better results than if you're locked
into a particular dimension.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.