Worktop joints

[ronnie]

Hi Gang, Just going to install a new kitchen. There will be 3 worktop joints with three toggle bolts and two buiscuits per joint. I have never done this before and wondered if anyone has any hints that would make this easier.

Ronnie

[Newshound]

Definitely practice on some scrap first.

90 degree joints are more dfficult even with a jig. You may find you get a height mismatch if you are a bit inaccurate.

[Archie]

Presumably you are using a router and template which is the only way to get a good joint.

1. Always route away from the formed edge. This means turning one of the mating worktops upside down.
2. Take several passes increasing the depth of cut a little each pass.
3. Use a good quality sharp cutter. The quality of joint the will suffer if the cutter is not sharp.
4. Seal the joint with a waterproof glue to prevent water seaping into the joint and lifting the laminate.

I have done this twice. The first time, templates cost about £130 so I made my own out of MDF. It was before there were cheap half inch router available and I made do with a quarter inch router. I did manage to get a first class joint though. My last attempt did not turn out so good as the cutter was not new. I also didn't get enough glue in the joint and the laminate has lifted slightly.

[Adrian]

Don't know if it's too late - but the last-but-one time I did this, the people supplying the worktop also pre-cut the two joints and the recesses for the toggle bolts. Might be worth asking ..?

The finished worktop was a 'C'-shape - and it all fitted together without too much difficulty - but tightening the toggle bolts involved climbing into the corner base units - which wasn't much fun !

Depending on the squareness of the existing walls, it's said that you can _only_ mark & cut the joints in-situ - but we managed OK with just a little 'nibbling' of the plasterwork at one end and any other gaps were disguised by the tiling on the wall...

Adrian

[GMM]

I did this (properly) for the first time a couple of years ago and was surprised at how easy it was using a jig. I baulked at the price but I found a jig at transtools with a pack of router cutters for around

30 quid so took the plunge. I've no doubt someone will say these cheap ones are no good, and I'm sure the expensive jobs last a lot longer, but it seemed fine to me for a couple of cuts. You'll need a biscuit cutter too - I used one on the router and that worked fine too.

Good luck

[Neil]

Hi Ronnie.

Are you hiring a jig/router & biscuit jointer ? If so have you ever used a

1/2" router or biscuit jointer before ? My top tip would be to practice on scrap worktop first to see how things feel. Dont try to clear out too much material with a single pass of the router, little & often is a better ploy. Don't underestimate the amount of dust that cutting a masons mitre creates. Make sure that the router bit always enters the laminated edge and exits the cut edge. Wear a mask. Measure everything at least twice before cutting. Never, ever assume that the walls are at 90 degrees to each other, allowing for out of true walls takes experience to get it right, especially in a 'U' shaped configuration You will be unpleasantly suprised by the speed that worktop jointing compound goes off, so dry fit everything until you are happy before applying sealant and tightening up the bolts.

Lastly good luck

Neil

[dave batter]

If you are in my area give me a call