Worcester Bosch Greenstar boiler/hot water

Our hot water began to play-up when the boiler was just over a couple of ye ars old and the problem continues to this day (3 years down the line). Anno yingly, we only changed the old one (10 year old Vailant combi) after repea ted attempts by BG service people, including replacement of most major comp onent, failed to fix exactly the same problem.

The problem is that the hot water is not reliably dispensed. When not produ ced on demand, the boiler is not firing-up properly. It makes a half-arsed attempt, with whirring of exhaust fan and a brief puff of steam, but at the tap, the water is cold or lukewarm. Sometimes, though, it plays ball and t he hot water is fine.

Now here's the thing; if water is drawn simultaneously from a hot outlet a nd certain cold outlets and/or a second hot outlet, the boiler can usually be made to fire-up and away we go. In some cases, closing off those additio nal outlets causes the hot water to wane.

In the light of the observations described above, it seems to me that there might be an issue with water pressure, but it's not that the flow rate is too high for the boiler to heat the volume passing through the heat exchang er. I say this because i) draw from additional hot outlets can remedy it, i i) when it happens, the boiler isn't firing properly and iii) if anything, the problem tends to be worse in warmer weather.

I did, in fact, check our water pressure and found that while it was rather high, it fell within acceptable operational range for the boiler. Regardle ss, I wonder whether it's worth trying an adjustable pressure limiting valv e on the boiler inlet. I'm more open to a sporting chance of a pragmatic so lution rather than a dead certain lengthy investigation!

What do you think? Worth a try, or total waste of time?

Cheers. Terry.

Reply to
terry.shitcrumbs
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If the pressure is within the acceptable range, then there must be a fault.

My Alpha combi has just had a similar problem fixed- it was a failed diaphragm somewhere, and the part was about £30, labour £80 or so. It manifested itself with the temperature fluctuating at first, then the boiler failing to fire for hot water, or firng for a second or two and stopping.

Reply to
Chris Bartram

years old and the problem continues to this day (3 years down the line). An noyingly, we only changed the old one (10 year old Vailant combi) after rep eated attempts by BG service people, including replacement of most major co mponent, failed to fix exactly the same problem.

duced on demand, the boiler is not firing-up properly. It makes a half-arse d attempt, with whirring of exhaust fan and a brief puff of steam, but at t he tap, the water is cold or lukewarm. Sometimes, though, it plays ball and the hot water is fine.

and certain cold outlets and/or a second hot outlet, the boiler can usuall y be made to fire-up and away we go. In some cases, closing off those addit ional outlets causes the hot water to wane.

re might be an issue with water pressure, but it's not that the flow rate i s too high for the boiler to heat the volume passing through the heat excha nger. I say this because i) draw from additional hot outlets can remedy it, ii) when it happens, the boiler isn't firing properly and iii) if anything , the problem tends to be worse in warmer weather.

er high, it fell within acceptable operational range for the boiler. Regard less, I wonder whether it's worth trying an adjustable pressure limiting va lve on the boiler inlet. I'm more open to a sporting chance of a pragmatic solution rather than a dead certain lengthy investigation!

Combis can only modulate down so far, resulting in exactly the symptoms you describe. It's one reason I'm not that keen on them.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

So the only common factor appears to be the high water pressure.

Reply to
Joe

Agree, but I still think there is likely to be a fault in the control system somewhere.

I suspect that gas repair guys increasingly follow automotive practice, replacing one thing after another until they find the fix, then say that they all needed replacing. (Not to deny that this is sometimes the cheapest strategy when you include labour costs, and *some* of them probably understand the engineering).

Pressure limiting valves are not expensive, and useful if your cold water is a bit "lively". I used to have one, but I'd guess it isn't the problem here.

Reply to
newshound

What is the flow rate at the hot tap?

Reply to
johnjessop46

It sounds like the flow / diaphragm switch that detects the flow of hot water is not working as it should.

Reply to
John Rumm

I had a flow problem and it was caused by a degraded o ring in the flow sensor - at certain flow rates it got drawn into the flow and reduced it.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

It's not just pressure but flow rate that matters. The pressure might drop too low once the required flow rate is reached.

You need to refer to the manufacturers website and see what the minimum delivery is per minute. There are special measuring jugs for this pupose but any graduated container will do.

Reply to
Andrew

and certain cold outlets and/or a second hot outlet, the boiler can usuall y be made to fire-up and away we go. In some cases, closing off those addit ional outlets causes the hot water to wane.

When hot water is drawn off the Worcester Bosch Greenstar combi boiler turb ine rotates and sends a voltage to the printed circuit board. If the turbin e is not rotating correctly/sticking/defective it will cause this issue. sometimes thermostatic shower mixers hot water flows section flows into the cold water section will cause a fault similar to what you are describing.

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Mohun Repaired and serviced thousands of Worcester Boilers Registered Gas Safe engineer

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worcesterboschboilerrepairs

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