Wooden windows won't fully shut

I'm really talking about the ones at the top which open outwards about a horizontal axis (I don't know what they are called, sorry).

It seems, to me, to be a common problem that they will not fully shut - well, none of mine will. So :-

a) If it is as common as I think, why won't they shut? Too many layers of paint? Wood has expanded? Other? b) What should have been done, or not done, to prevent this problem? c) What is the most cost- and/or effort- effective way of curing the fault? d) What, if anything, can or should I do to stop it happening in the future?

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
GPG
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opening toplight

Hinge might have bent or worn.

Remove old paint before applying new. Maintain the paint so that water penetration doesn't become a problem. Oil the hinges

Remove the toplight, strip the paint from it (and the bit of frame that it sits in, if that has very thick or flaking paint), check for rot and repair as necessary, replace hinges if needed, check for fit and plane where necessary, repaint and refit.

See above.

Reply to
Rob Morley

Top casement sash or hopper sash!

Do the windows close and then 'rattle' when the casement stay is 'locked'? If so, slightly adjust the rear stay pin away from the sash (can sometimes be done by tapping the base of it with a hammer as this is used as a fulcrum) just enough to stop the window rattling but allow the stay to 'hook' over the front pin.

If its draughty, then the only way to reduce this is to use a foam type stick-on draught excluder or such-like.

Another reason could be that the sash has 'twisted' or warped. If this is fairly major, then the only 'cure' is to renew the sash. If it's minor, then the sash can be 'adjusted' by moving one of the hinges in or out as needed and then adjust the stay as previously explained - or just adjust the stay (a little risky as it could put the glass under stress and it will break).

If the window refuses to shut, then check the following:

1 Excessive paint covering the hinges themselves making them stiff to operate. 2 Worn or rusty hinges. 3 Loose screws holding the hinges. 4 Too large a screw head holding the hinges and 'catching' on the opposite hinge when closing making the sash 'hingebound'. 5 Poorly fitted hinges again making the sash hingebound, 6 The sash has swollen and the leading edge of the rebate is catching the frame preventing the sash from fully closing.

The cure or repair of the above will be obvious once you have identified the cause(s).

Not a lot that you can do really other than carry out an annual check on it and keep it painted - I would advise stripping the paint off every couple of decoration cyles to prevent a thick build-up which could cause problems over the years - although due to the clearances on a casement sash this is unlikely to be a major problem (other than on the hinges).

d) What, if anything, can or should I do to stop it happening

Just normal maintenance really - but remember, that as the window is made of a natural product, this will twist, warp, move into add shapes and ultimately rot at some time in its life.

Hope this is of some help?

Brian G

Reply to
Brian G

In my neck of the woods (SE) casements are hinged and sashes slide, and hopper lights are hinged on the bottom rail. The usual name is top lights or fanlights.

Reply to
Peter Taylor

Pete,

In my part of the country , they are as stated and just to add to the confusion, are as you say. You can get them top hung, bottom hung, left hand hung and right hand hung, but however they are fixed, they are a casement sash (whether hopper, top light, side light et.al) and these are fitted into casement frame.

Vertical sliding sashes (box frame sash) in this part of the country are fitted into a box frame windod and have sash weights and sash cords fitted to control their movement.

Brian G

Reply to
Brian G

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