Wooden bath side panel

Jan 01, 2005 30 Replies

Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)?



I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...


How about magnetism.

Axminster, and I'm sure others, sell rare earth magnets quite cheaply

-

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a wooden frame and fix that in place to the floor, walls etc. to give a firm foundation. Drill holes for the magnets with a Forstner bit or spade bit with care and glue in the magnets.

Take some penny washers (say 25mm diameter with a small hole) - available from usual sources - roughen and epoxy them to the inside of the panel.

It meets all of your criteria.....

I've used this quite successfully for a panel of similar size to a bath one. It is as well to arrange a small gap somewhere to slide a hook in for later removal. These are quite strong magnets......

Magnetic door catches. Try

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for some idea of what I mean

Velcro, just to give an alternative to magnets. You can buy in in stick-on lengths at most DIY places and since I don't trust the stick on, I would bang a few staples through it as well.

Magnetism's good.. But in my rental property's I use few dabs of silicone, oafs have failed to knock then off but with a bit of gentle leverage it can be removed.

"Huge" wrote | Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel | onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from | the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable | (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)?

Velcro.

Owain

My side panel is fixed on *virtually* invisibly.

The top of the panel is rebated to go behind the turned-over lip of the bath. The bottom is about 3cm off the floor. Attached to the floor, just inboard of the panel, is a plinth made of a strip of white Conti-board, about 8cm high. There are a couple of those little plastic connecting blocks screwed to the bottom edge of the panel and, in turn, screwed into the plinth. Invisible? - well, you have virtually to lie on the floor to see them - particularly since they're white against a white background.

Bingo!

I'd already discounted magnetic door catches, since they are designed to take loads normal to the magnet, not axially, and this thing weighs several kilos.

What a splendid newsgroup this is!

================= Use a short length of broom handle with either:

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or
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At work we use some sort of "Industrial" Velcro which uses interlocking plastic bobbles rather than the fibrous textile stuff to hold cosmetic panels onto our machines.

DG

Don't under-estimate the power of rare earth magnets, maybe I still hate velcro because of it's noise.

So fix some adjustable feet on the back to hold it level.

Isn't it going to sit on the floor or other support at the bottom?

BTW. I found with the rare earth magnets that there was no sliding anyway. THey're pretty powerful....

I've just found a couple of rolls of Scotch "Magnatherm" tape in a box in the loft (Ideal weather for turning out the loft!) It is in two parts, one is a self adheasive steel band , the other is a magnetic band. Sold for DIY double glazing in 1/2" wide, 10' lengths.

Should do you!

Andrew

Nope. It laps over a kick-strip at the bottom. As She commanded.

Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... :o)

Try these

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a treat for me

Dave Jones

Then install a couple of stands that the panel can stand on, this will remove the vertical (axially) forces and the a couple of magnets will do just fine...

Rare earth magnets (Neodynium) are VERY strong so should easily cope with the panel alone without the stands described above...

/Morten

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