My wood-burning stove's door has started leaking air so that the fire
roars away even with everything shut. I know how to replace the rope but
the glass has no gasket (the stove was in the house when I bought it)
and probably doesn't need one (there's no groove). The glass is held in
by 4 bits of metal held on by screws.
Should I put a bead of the rope cement in before re-installing the glass
On Wed, 06 Nov 2013 17:54:09 +0000, Another Dave wrote:
Make and model of stove?
On our Stockton has a similar arrangement and a quick look suggests that
there is nothing major between the glass and the metal.
Are the doors, perhaps, a little warped?
You may be able to find a manual for your stove on line.
On 06/11/2013 18:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Yes, I think I'll go for that.
My problem is that the maker went bust years ago but that looks like
it'll solve the problem. It hasn't had any seal round the glass since
before I bought the house so anything is better than that.
On 6 Nov 2013 18:06:42 GMT, David.WE.Roberts wrote:
Our Stockton has a small bit of rope between glass and metal. Approx
5 mm wide but that is compressed. The glass held in place by two
short bits of metal and screw on the hinge side and a long bit of
metal and three screws down the edge that forms the center of the two
I'd be sort of surprised if there is no seal at all between glass and
metal. Doesn't rope cement cure to somthing hard and brittle? I'd
expect the differential expansion of metal v glass to cause problems
if the two were stuck together.
I had a lid to body gap which opened up because of distortion, easily
cured with a bit of fire cement. You might just about get away with
silicone here, I'm about to fire mine up and will get the IR thermometer
The door is typically around 200 C when it is running reasonably warm,
with peaks up to about 230 C. So I would expect ordinary bathroom
silicone to be fairly effective. It won't retain its resilience as it
degrades and I would expect it to lose some volume and become harder or
powdery with time, but it would probably be an effective gap filler for
one or more seasons. I tend to replace door seals every three or four
years or so, depending on use.
On Wednesday 06 November 2013 22:28 newshound wrote in uk.d-i-y:
I would use the correct stuff:
(You can also get flue sealant that goes to 1250C but as you say the door
will be a lot cooler).
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/
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Sorry, a bit late to the party but you maybe you could try
http://www.stovecareandrepair.co.uk? I've never actually used them as such
but I found them online about a year ago when I was considering
refurbishing a stove (in the end I scrapped the thing and started again).
The proprietor and I exchanged several emails and he sounded really
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