Wood-burning stove refurbishment

My wood-burning stove's door has started leaking air so that the fire roars away even with everything shut. I know how to replace the rope but the glass has no gasket (the stove was in the house when I bought it) and probably doesn't need one (there's no groove). The glass is held in by 4 bits of metal held on by screws.
Should I put a bead of the rope cement in before re-installing the glass or what?
Another Dave
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On Wed, 06 Nov 2013 17:54:09 +0000, Another Dave wrote:

Make and model of stove?
On our Stockton has a similar arrangement and a quick look suggests that there is nothing major between the glass and the metal.
Are the doors, perhaps, a little warped?
You may be able to find a manual for your stove on line.
Cheers
Dave R
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On 06/11/13 18:06, David.WE.Roberts wrote:

I THINK that my highwayman has a sort of sticky backdeed gaskety that came with the new glass..and the new clips I needed - or its a regualr spare part anyway.

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On 06/11/13 18:13, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

ah
e.g.,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/321236175067

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On 06/11/2013 18:16, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Yes, I think I'll go for that.
My problem is that the maker went bust years ago but that looks like it'll solve the problem. It hasn't had any seal round the glass since before I bought the house so anything is better than that.
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On 6 Nov 2013 18:06:42 GMT, David.WE.Roberts wrote:

Our Stockton has a small bit of rope between glass and metal. Approx 5 mm wide but that is compressed. The glass held in place by two short bits of metal and screw on the hinge side and a long bit of metal and three screws down the edge that forms the center of the two doors.
I'd be sort of surprised if there is no seal at all between glass and metal. Doesn't rope cement cure to somthing hard and brittle? I'd expect the differential expansion of metal v glass to cause problems if the two were stuck together.
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On 06/11/2013 17:54, Another Dave wrote:

I had a lid to body gap which opened up because of distortion, easily cured with a bit of fire cement. You might just about get away with silicone here, I'm about to fire mine up and will get the IR thermometer out.
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On 06/11/2013 18:34, newshound wrote:

The door is typically around 200 C when it is running reasonably warm, with peaks up to about 230 C. So I would expect ordinary bathroom silicone to be fairly effective. It won't retain its resilience as it degrades and I would expect it to lose some volume and become harder or powdery with time, but it would probably be an effective gap filler for one or more seasons. I tend to replace door seals every three or four years or so, depending on use.
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On Wednesday 06 November 2013 22:28 newshound wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I would use the correct stuff:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vitcas-High-Temperature-Silicone-Up-To-300-C-For-Woodburning-Stoves-Fireplaces-/161121842593?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
(You can also get flue sealant that goes to 1250C but as you say the door will be a lot cooler).

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On 07/11/2013 07:25, Tim Watts wrote:

It's nicely packaged but it is probably the exactly the same as "bathroom" stuff at half the price
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On Thursday 07 November 2013 13:29 newshound wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I'm pretty sure the 1250C stuff isn't! But how can you be sure about the 300C stuff? For a few pounds I wouldn't worry...
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On 07/11/2013 13:41, Tim Watts wrote:

The 1250C stuff won't be silicone, it will be some sort of fire cement.
Since I always have bathroom silicone in stock, and I can't see even a big stove needing a whole tube, I'd save my money!
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email.me:

Sorry, a bit late to the party but you maybe you could try http://www.stovecareandrepair.co.uk? I've never actually used them as such but I found them online about a year ago when I was considering refurbishing a stove (in the end I scrapped the thing and started again). The proprietor and I exchanged several emails and he sounded really helpful.
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