My uncle was given a wood burning stove, Soffolk County in NY.He
with a local installer and the price he quoted, my uncle felt it was
way too high. Anyway I'm looking for a mail order warehouse, and can
somebody tell me what I need.
Here is what he wants to do. The back of the stove has an 8" opening
and he wants to go thru the ceiling. That will be roughly 12 feet.Can
he reduce the pipe to 6" from the 8", will that work?
I fully agree
Stop the amanedes, and the tears nobody feels sorry for us
1. Check to see if the stove will meet current code for wood stoves. This
may involve finding the manufacturer's installation specifications. If they
are not available, the stove probably will not meet code.
2. If the stove does not meet code, your insurance company may not cover
you. They usually want a certificate showing that it passed inspections by a
3. If the stove has an 8" flue, that is normally a clue that it needs an 8"
flue pipe to the chimney.
4. What is he installing it on, what is the wall next to it made of, what is
the clearance to the wall, what is the ceiling made of, you may need
shields, masonry hearth, double wall flue pipe to the chimney. He may find
that the local installer is quite reasonable when he has to accommodate the
Start with your insurance company. Ours said it would be an additional $10
a year on our homeowner's. No permit required. Or they will tell you that
they don't insure them. Next, city hall. Ours said no permit required.
The clearances were on the stove, but are mostly available on line, or from
the fireplace shop. Good idea to have something on the walls. Sheetrock
walls will take the heat, but do get mighty warm. May scorch a little if
you have it too close, or get it real hot, but sheetrock and glass
insulation doesn't burn easily. Easy to get some backerboard or tile, and
have peace of mind. They also make decorative panels that just slap up
around the stove. Don't forget the floor, and carry the hard floor out
about 3' in front of the stove, as you will eventually drop a hot coal.
ood stoves are nearly as bad as knob and tube wiring, a bad roof, a
vacant home, a broken sidewalk, steps without a railing, fuse boxes,
many homeowners policies refuse to insure homes for a wide variety of
Does it matter what the law is WHERE YOU LIVE, Greg?
OP should check with a local fireplace shop WHERE HE LIVES for local laws,
and suggestions as to whether choking down the pipe is a good idea.
Fireplace and stove stores are a very good source of information for that
sort of thing.
FYI, I have six apparatuses that carry wood stove exhaust through either a
ceiling or roof. I have two wood burning stoves, plus the range exhaust
over the cooktop. They are a flat sheet metal piece, with a hole in the
center for the pipe. There's a little more to it than that, but that's a
basic description. You can get the pipe in various numbers of successive
pipes within each other, all designed to either keep the outermost pipe
cooler, or perhaps intake some air for the stove through the outer annulus.
You can get the "jacks" or flat square pieces with the holes cut at
different angles for different roof pitches. Start at a fireplace shop. In
my state, it is legal, but that's like me telling you that you are nuts
because you say you are going to have rain tomorrow, and I'm going to have
Poor old Greg.
First off, you should not reduce the outlet size. If 8" is needed at
the bottom, it is needed at the top for proper draft.
Before you even start, get some professional advice either from an
installer or a proper book. Wrong installation can result in a burned
down house, even death from a fire.
I'm not up on the latest codes but triple wall tubing is generally
what is used in the US and there is a double wall Class A for Canada.
Find out what is needed to support the pipe, do a proper layout for
cleanouts, drip leg, flashing, and the proper height above the roof.
There are codes for that also.
Some towns require permits and inspections, as do some insurance
companies. There are also codes to stove placement to walls, etc.
Re the chimney size you will need to consult the manufacturer's data
sheet. It will also depend on how many bends (if any) there needs to
be in the chimney.
There are all sorts of other issues with the installation to prevent
fire and give proper ventilation.
Wood stove installation nowadays requires a building permit
(from the municipal building permits office, which can also answer
your questions, e.g. about pipe size.) Be warned that some
house insurers refuse to cover houses with wood stoves.
If you want your house to be covered in case of fire - like in case the
WHOLE house burns down...
-You need to get approval from your homeowners insurance company. They
WILL want to see a building permit and see that ALL work (including the
chimney) was inspected and passed...
-And the local building inspector WILL want to see that EVERYTHING
(including the chimney) was installed to the woodstove manufacturer's
instructions as well as the chimney manufacturer's instructions.
Note the installation instructions will be DIFFERENT for each different
model of woodstove! Chimney size, distance woodstove MUST be from walls,
R-Value of hearth, etc.
If you do not bother to install the woodstove properly and safely, why
should your insurance company pay for damage done because your house
catches on fire and burns to the ground?
When I asked my insurer, they just said it should be professionally
installed. I think a permit and inspection would work for me. Around here
you usually see an external insulated pipe running up the side of the
house, but it's usually more than a one story complex. The pipes are ugly.
WOW! I just called my insurance company, and they said it would be $10 more
per year on my homeowner policy. I called my local building permits
department, and they said, "Enjoy your new stove."
I guess things are different where I live. Your advice must be only where
you live, and if I lived there, I wouldn't live there.
Usenet obtained information is priceless. It's free, and worth easily ten
times that. The receiver of such information must take all answers with a
grain of salt, because, although well intentioned, it is written as if
everyone lives in the same community and state as the poster.
We remodeled the bedroom, and will be putting in a new wood stove just to
keep the chill off of things, and because we economize with free wood,
lowering our fuel bills. I will call the insurance company, and perhaps my
insurance will go up another $10 per year. I won't bother to call the
permit department, because I already know they don't give a care about
retrofitting a home with a wood stove in our community.
To the OP, check it out with YOUR insurance agent, and YOUR town's building
permit department, and YOUR local fireplace shop.
So I pay *my* premiums-- Can I start a fire on my living room floor
without the benefit of a stove or fireplace and expect my insurance
company to pay up?
It is a contract-- I pay them and promise I'll be careful. They cover
if something that isn't my fault happens. Works for me.
I don't want to pay the premiums for your model.
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