wiring help

[Andy Burns]

They do, but if the relay is clicking, it suggests that isn't the reason ...

[ss]

Rodger 2 posts down `wiring clarification please` shows the flood lamp wiring.

[dennis]

It has a relay and will work with no load if you want.

It doesn't work because there is something wrong in the lamp or the wires aren't connected correctly.

[ss]

Rodger, below is the wiring as is on one image, including the wiring for the flood. The original wiring in my other post was brown/blue/earth as it was wired straight to mains for testing so I have changed that to what it currently is.

[ss]

Rodger further to my last post, I am not too familiar with wiring but when I try to follow the logic of the wiring as I have it then at the PIR end there is a switched live so if the PIR triggers does that not send a live to the brown wire (live) to the flood.

[PeterC]

There is a remote possibility that the fixed contact in the relay is bent a bit. I've encountered this only a couple of times - one was the relay that supplied the entire control circuitry for a complex test chamber. Finished all the wiring, switched on - nothing! Checked that relay as a first point, re-bent the contact and the whole lot worked. At least it was an easy one to find. However, if a direct connection to the light doesn't work either the LED's down or the internal connection is borked somewhere.

[Brian Gaff]

However , if he is hearing a click it sounds to me like its the relay type and no such restriction should be in one of those. Brian

[Brian Gaff]

I wonder if this Pir has also got a dark switch in it, so it nees to be dark for the pir to actually connect. Brian

[ss]

PIR has 3 settings lux / time / sensitivity I have also tried at night in a darkened room.

[Roger Mills]

I would expect the incoming mains to use the brown (live) and blue (neutral) conductors and the PIR switched live to be on the red conductor.

That being the case, the red and blue wires need to go to the lamp, which appears to be what you've done - albeit using the black conductor with red marker to carry the switched live.

So I don't know why it's not working - suggesting that either the PIR or the lamp itself is duff. If you haven't got a mains voltmeter, you can test the lamp (and its supply box) by connecting mains directly to it, and you can test the PIR by connecting a known good lamp - any mains lamp, not necessarily an LED - to it.

[Mike Clarke]

If you have a known working table lamp try using the PIR to power it instead of the flood. If the table lamp works then the PIR is OK and you have either a duff transformer or flood.

[ss]

Thanks Roger,

I know the flood lamp was working prior to wiring it up as I tested it. So I will replace the flood with a table lamp and see if that works via the PIR, either way I will then recheck the LED flood direct to mains and see if that has now blown. Will probably post back tomorrow with results.

thanks

[Andy Burns]

Just because there's nowhere for the earth to connect at the PIR end of its cable, isn't a good reason to not connect the earth to the wago connector at the other end ...

[Andy Burns]

Also rather than having the earth flapping around loose inside the PIR, replace the 3-way bit of choc-block with a 4-way bit to give yourself somewhere to park the earth?

[ss]

Point taken, the wiring is just temporary at the moment to ensure it all works and I can do that indoors, it will be properly done when I get decent weather and install outdoors.

[ARW]

Might as well do that as it is a IET reg:-)