Wiring an electrical cooker

[James]

My apologies, here it is

you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on the platic box cover the 3 wire connections.

[Ron Lowe]

As a follow-up to myself,

There is always the possibility it is designed for a multi-phase supply for international use, but in the UK it would be run from a single phase. There may be jumpers on the incoming supply terminals which can be removed if run on a multi-phase supply. If it really is suitable for domestic use in the UK, then the jumpers are installed, and all the elements run off the single phase. In this case, the single phase needs to have a high enough rating.

My Fisher and Paykel oven fromNZ is like this.

Your electrician will advise.

[geoff]

In message , James writes

Now where did you mention that before ?

Really ?

maybe you need to plug it into a streetlight then ...

Domestic appliances are rated at 230v not 440v

Either you misread it, or it fell of the back of the wrong truck

>

[Ron Lowe]

> as you can see not a commercial cooker. It definitely says 440v on the

OK, that's probably the voltage rating of the plastic box! The cooker is 240V.

That thing has 4 electric rings and an electric oven. It will require a dedicated supply. That may already be present in your house.

It will require an electrician to determine whether the existing supply is adequate.

This is non-trivial.

[geoff]

In message , James writes

OK - here's the science bit

Domestic houses are wired with single phase 230 volt supplies

230 volts is f*ck all use on a 440 volt appliance

take it back to the man down the pub who you bought it from and ask for your money back

[The Medway Handyman]

James take some good advice - get an electrician in. Unless you wish to kill several people.

[James]

If you carry on reading you will see it was bought from argos not a man down anywhere. And turns out its 240v.

[James]

Shakes head at you.

[Bill]

In message , James writes

James, do I recall that you said there was a socket in place for a cooker? Is this a 3 pin mains socket such as you would plug any normal appliance into? If so it will not be adequate for the cooker, if it is a blank plate with a cable outlet and a "cooker" switch mounted above it then you could be in luck

It would appear to be 9 kW max and 240V

[geoff]

In message , James writes

My post was sent before your argos revelation appeared

[James]

There is a 3 pin mains socket but it doesn't have the usual on off switch to the top right, instead there is a big red switch above the kitchken counter.

Althought there is a blank plate to the right of it for god knows what. Perhaps this is where the cooker should go ? and the socket that we plugged the cooker into it for something else. I'll test it tommorow to see if the big red cooker marked switch operates this socket or not then I will assume it ioperate the one which is blanked plated.

The plot thickens :)

[James]

Ahhh .... oops :)

[The Medway Handyman]

More likely the smoke thickens. Have you any idea how dangerous this could be? Seriously you could kill people. Get a sparks in.

[James]

Jesus christ I've already said we are getting an electrician this is just a chit chat now.

Hopefully we are not going to go round and round in circles.

To confirm so there are no more posts like this telling me to get a spark. I am getting a electrician to do this work end of.

pffft

[Eiron]

You could ignore the bullshit here and disconnect the wire from the old cooker then connect it to the new one, after turning off the power.

[Bill]

In message , James writes

For a fridge then, you can isolate the power to it without having to pull it from under the work surface, handy if it has just started smoking :-)

Sounds likely, ask around and try and find an electrician though, you still have to connect it up.

[Bob Eager]

It's fairly common to run a single dedicated circuit for the cooker, to a connection box on the wall. Such box has an isolating switch (your big red switch), but used also to have a 13 amp socket for the kettle or whatever. The red switch will probably isolate both the socket and the hidden connection point inside the box (there's probably a piece of plastic or a hole or whatever for entry of cable from cooker). Of course, it's LIVE in there, and needs isolation elsewhere before working on it (I know you'll be getting in an electrician, anyway).

It's felt that use of that 3 pin socket is best avoided anyway, for various safety reasons, although that may be contentious!

[Paul Herber]

This is probably the worst advice given on this subject so far!

[PJ]

4 N.B.: the following installation procedure must be carried out by a qualified electrician. The electrical installation must comply with the IEE Regulations,Building & local By-Lays. and

N.B.: the power supply cable must have these minimum requirements: Type: H05RR-F Section: 3x4 mm2

Page 22 Voltage and Frequency 240V~ 50/60Hz

Now what is that nice polite phrase about read the manual.

[The Medway Handyman]

What are you, some kind of idiot? Its clear from his posts that James doesn't have enough knowledge to do the job safely.

The advice he has recieved isn't 'bullshit' its given with genuine concern for his safety.