Wire insulation problem

[chade]

Hello all,

I have a "little Acorn" trail cam, it is a waterproof digital camera which automatically takes photos when it detects movement. A flap on the base opens to give access to the controls and a small screen. A electrical ribbon cable connects the electrics in the body of the camera to the electrics in the flap.

Unfortunately the insulation of the ribbon cable has completely perished and come away. Access to the ends of the copper wire is not possible as the units are sealed. Without insulation I am worried that the copper wires may either short out or become damaged when the lid moves.

Can anyone suggest a way of protecting the wires with a flexible, insulative coating that can be applied to fine copper wires that are close together?

TIA

[Paddy Dzell]

[e-mail] has brought this to us :

Wouldn't be flexible but only think that comes to mind is a blob of hot-melt glue on the bare conductors?

[Brian Reay]

You could try a thin layer of neutral cure clear silicone.

Being neutral cure, it shouldn?t harm the copper etc. Being clear, you can see the wires are kept apart as you apply it.

[alan_m]

varnish

[Roger Hayter]

I had this problem with an Ereagle cameral. In the end I checked the type number on the ribbon cable, which specifies the thickness and pitch, and measured the length and number of ways; and found 100 of them for about 5 quid on Alibaba. They are about 1cm longer than the original, but this is easlly accommodated at one end.

(I doubt if they fit yours but they are 100Pcs AWM 20624 80C 60V VW-1

230 x 0.5mm 26 Pin FFC . I also have a couple of the same thing 8" long which were too short for my application. You would be welcome to a couple if they did fit)

[Roger Hayter]

Actually I was mistaken, it was Amazon marketplace I got them. But I just put ""AWM 20624" price uk" into Google and sifted the results for length etc.

[chade]

<snip>

Thanks for the offer but I do not think they would be suitable. Plus I can not access any plug at the end of the cable as the wires disappear inside sealed units both ends.

[chade]

<snip>

Clever thinking on it being clear, but pretty messy to apply I would guess.

[Roger Hayter]

That which i sealed can be unsealed! Though if you are not comfortable dismantling it that would be a problem.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I was going to say epoxy...but you really need a rubber dont you?

IIRC there is some electrical potting compound that is flexible

[alan_m]

Any chance of a photo showing the problem?

[Brian Gaff]

So is this really wire or one of those printed circuit flexible couplings as you get on the end of keyboard membranes. If it is the latter, I'd suggest its not repairable, but otherwise it depends on how far apart the wires are and whether you might be able to get in with some electrical lacquer of some kind. Brian

[Reentrant]

Check out Julian Ilett's Youtube videos on his solar battery charge controllers. He's tried pretty much all the above suggestions (esp. silicone, hot-melt glue, etc) and the only thing that has lasted long-term through all weathers is UV-settable resin. But it's not flexible.

[Dr S Lartius]

See

: consider the copper as warp, and use cotton or thread as the weft woven into it, positioned with a needle and a steady hand. That provides both separation and insulation. Perhaps, use one or two extra warp strands on each edge, adding strength. Push the weft strands together as you go, so that there is continuous coverage.

The sort of glue that comes (came?) in bicycle puncture repair outfits _should_ dry flexible. If so, it could be applied over and into the weft.

Note that it would have been useful to give numeric values for "fine" and "close".

Of course, you will test this on a facsimile of the real thing.

[chade]

It is wire.

[chade]

I do not think I can without causing damage.

[chade]

Thanks for your repley. Mostly the flap is closed the wires are protected from the sun and weather.

[Dave Liquorice]

Quite, someone or something put it togetehr it *must* come apart. It's just a case of working out how it was assembled and how to reverse that.

If the case halves are glued or friction welded a certain amount of damage is inevitable but once you got a start on such joints you can often just slide something from the start and the joint will open. Resealing afterwards either polystrene cement (for ABS cases) or self amalgamating tape or even agood quality and slightly stretched electrical insulation tape.

[Roger Hayter]

Judging by my camera and the photo (see URL in my other post) they come apart with cross head screws, plus very careful remove of PCB flying lead plugs. Mine had rubber seals rather than glue.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Simple minds.

solvent weld?