Will No-Nails hold electrical boxes?

Halfords do car body stuff that is a lot cheaper than the chemical mortar.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher
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Don't be sloppy with the cutout then :-)

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

You're sounding like Andy Hall, except that, I suspect, he would not (now) allow himself be seen dead in a 'Pound Shop'...

Reply to
:Jerry:

Probably not, but it will have been glued to the wall with a scientific cleanliness and application - real world condition never match the theory...

Reply to
:Jerry:

Reply to
Andy Hall

For Drivel, I think that the first spelling is the right one.

Reply to
Andy Hall

What's a pound shop?

Reply to
Andy Hall

You could have fooled us!

Reply to
:Jerry:

A place where junk is a pound or less. :-)

Reply to
George

Let's face it. Anybody could fool you....

Reply to
Andy Hall

They used top be called '50p shops', but with Blair's/Brown inflation they had to be renamed as 'Pound Shops' - everything sold is 1ukp or less. Not that I use them, I just knew people who did.

Reply to
:Jerry:

Some prat nailed mine in using big cut nails. Takes half the block out when you pull them out to fit doubles.

Reply to
dennis

A bank?

Seriously it's a place where everything costs a pound. And can be bought in Tesco for less.

Tesco is a supermarket. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Works quite nicely on brick or cinderblock walls here as well (solid not cavity though).

Failing that a bit of bonding plaster. The solvent based gripfill stuff also works, but takes too long to set.

Reply to
John Rumm

It's where everything costs five quid

Reply to
Stuart Noble

The most precise thing I have DIYed is a telescope mirror.. about 1/10 wavelength of light using hand tools that I made myself. After that anything else really isn't very precise.

Reply to
dennis

Even things that are only worth a pound.

The concepts of average selling price and average margin are not new ones any more than average quality.

Reply to
Andy Hall

That's true. However, in between there is a whole spectrum of requirements.

For example, at the weekend I needed to produce some joinery components for a DIY project. These form a four sided polygon where two of the inside angles are 90 degrees and the third is 42.5 degrees. Because the long dimension is a great deal more than the short one, accuracy of the angle cutting was paramount or the pieces won't meet correctly when joined. The next requirement was having the material a precise width so that there would be longitudinal alignment as well. Finally, there are ten of these and they had to be identical.

Given geological time, I could have fashioned these pieces with hand tools. However, this wasn't available and the fact that precise geometry is involved, the obvious solution was to machine the components. It's really not interesting to do that by hand.

This was possible quite easily on the combination machine and the sliding compound mitre saw. Although these are settable fairly accurately using their own scales (e.g. 0.2mm on thicknessing) I prefer to run test pieces and measure with a caliper. Then I can sneak up on the exact size. Most importantly, there is reproducibility without needing to check after every cut and a very clean finish.

There are certainly projects where I prefer to use hand tools, but that is where a particular effect is wanted which doesn't lend itself to machine tools and where there is the time to lavish on it.

Reply to
Andy Hall

What would Drivel want with a hyperbolic cosine?

Reply to
Andy Wade

Which means what exactly?

I can buy a SCART lead for £1 or pay a tenner in Dixons. What would you do?

Reply to
Stuart Noble

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