Will No-Nails hold electrical boxes?

[John]

Hi all, a few questions on No-Nails and the like please. I'm installing a couple of TV aerial sockets into a brick wall. I've made the recess into the bricks. It's a 1960's brick/brick cavity wall BTW and the aerial lead is going inside the cavity. I'm wondering if No-Nails would hold the metal boxes in the holes. Has anyone used No-Nails for this? Do you think Gripfil would hold better on the slightly uneven brick surface? Finally, I've seen a product called Pink Grip or something like that. How does this differ from No-Nails? Thanks

John

[The Natural Philosopher]

CarBodyFilla is your friend. Or epoxy mortar..

[Stuart Noble]

Gripfil and the rest will probably slide around a bit too long to allow you to get the box flush with the wall easily. I prefer to position the box with a couple of blobs of car body filler and fill later.

[Stuart Noble]

Blimey, beaten to it by the president of the body filler fan club :-)

Andy might prefer Aunty Betty's Aerial Socket Filler, which comes with a colour co-ordinated range of protective clothing and full technical support.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Normal thing to use is quick set mortar. You'll get ready mixed bags of it at most sheds and electrical wholesalers.

[Stuart Noble]

I imagine the OP might have knocked through to the cavity to run the cable and will be relying just on the sides for adhesion. If it's a neat hole there may not be a lot of room for cement or plaster to get a grip.

Car body filler will set you free. Find true salvation today!

[:Jerry:]

Sorry but car body filler has no structural strength what so ever for such a task, talk about being attached by a wing and a prayer! What's wrong with a screw and packing (if you've chopped out to much masonry?

[Owain]

Am I doing something wrong using screws and wallplugs to hold my boxes in? ;-)

Owain

[Andy Hall]

That was a bit unkind. What's Aunty Betty done to you?

[Andy Hall]

Another convert to the RUCBF club.

[Andy Hall]

A true convert.

Are we going to have Come to David's meetings?

[John]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I've not knocked into the cavity, just made a square recess into the brick. Even if I say so myself, it's a nice neat job. The hole is a snug fit and the right depth for the box. Took me ages to do mind and it might yet break apart when I drill the cable hole. Those bricks are b***y tough.

I'd not thought of car body filler which is surprising having rebuilt many 1960's car wings, doors, boots, etc. I thought of No-Nails as the box fits the hole so well. There's only a couple of mm clearance at the worst point. The quick setting mortar looks like the thing for me though. I've not come across it before.

John

[Stuart Noble]

Yes, bring your credit card

[John]

Is that Isopon or Plowman?

[Stuart Noble]

You don't need structural strength, you're only holding the thing in place. The reason bonding plaster is used is that it's easier to position the box accurately. Put a few coach bolts in after it sets if it's going to trigger an anxiety attack

[Andy Hall]

Do you take Amex?

Interestingly, B&Q does, but Wickes doesn't.

Implication is that B&Q prices are at least 3-4% high if they can fund that out of margin.

[Andy Hall]

Isopon definitely. Mr. Plowman is far too modest to want to be the Billy Graham of the DIY world.

[:Jerry:]

You might get away with it for light switches etc. but when someone tries pulling the plug from a socket with 'very healthy' contact wipers - I've seen more than a few times where someone has though they can glue a backing box in, only top find the plug, socket and backing box come away from the wall in their (or some else's) hand and be left dangling by the cable(s)!

[Stuart Noble]

No, it says too much about me that cash can't

[Andy Hall]

Yes. Only works in Scotland with the granite walls.