Wiki: Trace a circuit

How to trace the wiring of a mains circuit.

==Options== There are several possible ways to do it.

===See what's live=== Option A is to switch all circuits off bar the one you want to trace, and test which lighting points or sockets are still live. If you're only looking for lighting points and sockets, this can be done by plugging light bulbs or portable lights in.

If you're also looking for junction boxes or loose cable ends, you'd need to access the live wires and use a multimeter. This means live working, which is not recommended, and doubly not recommended if you need to read this article.

===Multimeter=== Option B is a [[Multimeter]] and a long [[Flex|wire]]. Power must be off on /all/ circuits to use this, then you can trace where the live [[Cable|wire]] goes using the low resistance range on any [[multimeter]]. Check the resistance from L to N on the circuit first, it needs to be not low. You may need to remove or switch off loads on the circuit to get this.

You need to trace the live wire, not neutral or earth wires, as the latter are normally connectoed to those on other circuits even when the [[MCB]]s in the [[CU]] are off or the [[fusebox]] [[fuse]]s removed.

Note that turning the main CU switch off doesn't electrically separate the circuits, all MCBs still need to be off, or all fuses pulled.

===Flasher=== Option C is a flasher and either light bulbs or a mains live wire detector. The flasher (with a [[fuse]] built in) is fitted in place of the fuse at the [[fusebox]]. It turns the mains power on the circuit on and off frequently, making the circuit easy to trace.

Flashers are no longer popular since they aren't easy to plug in to a modern CU using [[[MCB]]]s.

===Signal generator=== Option D is a signal generator and a sniffer. Feed an hf signal down the live wire, then use the sniffer to locate where it runs. The [[MCB]] of the circuit being tested must be off before connecting the signal generator.

===Neon screwdrivers=== These are not recommended. They produce both false positives and false negatives, making them a safety liability. See [[Neon screwdriver]]

==Which is best== If you need to read this article to find out how to do it:

  • option A with no live working
  • option B if you also need to trace junction boxes or loose cable ends.

==Safety== Live working should be avoided.

Flashers, if used in place of a CU [[fuse]], need suitable fusing to maintain safety. [[Fuse|20mm fuses]] are entirely unsuitable for this.

If you're working on an unfamiliar property and wish to use a method requiring that all power be off, check that everything is dead before proceeding, in case there's a 2nd CU somewhere else still supplying power.

==See also==

  • [[Fuse]]
  • [[MCB]]
  • [[CU]]

[[Category:Electrical]] [[Category:Basics]]

Reply to
NT
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Yes indeed: and double check if the electric co boys have just changed your meter. I once went to work on a light in our garage; turned off the garage cu, popped in the avo just to make sure, and sparks flew. Meter changer had not noticed the feed to the garage, but had swapped over the input connectors...

S
Reply to
Spamlet

In place of mains wire detector, put Fluke Voltalert or Greenbook live wire detector. That way people can figure out a safe solution more quickly.

Would it not be better split into two re #1 - quick tester with Voltalert, #2 - other methods? Avoids the FAQ looking like a history of test methods.

Another note would be that RCD do not trip when you short L-N, eg, ES or BC light fittings.

Another note is that whilst a wire may test dead, if removed it can become live should it be part of a circuit with borrowed live/neutral. Therefore whilst test live, always work dead in terms of a house isolated unless it is known there are no borrowed live/neutral. We never had a borrowed live until 1985, so they can get added when someone screws up & botches.

You can hire Fluke cable tracers, about =A350-80, or buy for about =A3290. Most people find an SDS is a much more efficient method of finding everything you did not think was there - or just let a kitchen fitter in or collect wall mounted plates.

Reply to
js.b1

I'm trying to figure out what you mean, but it isnt quite happening. What do yo mean by 'input connectors?'

NT

Reply to
NT

In message , js.b1 writes

I once removed a kitchen cabinet from a friends wall and found one of the fixing holes in the plaster had very neat black scorch marks all around it and "live" written in pencil beside it!! There was no screw or rawl plug in the hole.

Reply to
Bill

I'm trying to figure out what you mean, but it isnt quite happening. What do yo mean by 'input connectors?'

NT

Sorry, don't know the pukka name. The main wires go through two connectors where they join the feed to the cu itself. It doesn't matter which connector you use for 'red' and which for 'black', so the fitter did not pay attention to which way round they had been before he changed the meter, or to the fact that there were two more wires going to the garage, so red and black to the garage ended up reversed. Which came as something of a surprise!

S
Reply to
Spamlet

Good idea to get acable tracer then! S

Reply to
Spamlet

Pictures already available BTW :

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Reply to
John Rumm

Sounds like you mean Henley blocks

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Reply to
Andy Burns

Yup. But then the story doesnt add up: if L&N were swapped and the CU were switched off, all downstream wiring would still be dead.

NT

Reply to
NT

Ta. Its been partly rewritten, will post later

NT

Reply to
NT

Yup. But then the story doesnt add up: if L&N were swapped and the CU were switched off, all downstream wiring would still be dead.

NT

It's a bit long ago for me to recall the exact sequence of events, but I was very puzzled at the readings I was getting from the avo, and kept tracing back until there was nowhere left to look but where the supply came from the house where I found the reversal.

S
Reply to
Spamlet

Yes, I just cant figure it out, unless there was a lot more giong on, like a cicuit backfed from another CU etc

NT

Reply to
NT

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