Drain trace heating

Getting closer to deciding to add trace heating to my condensate drain.

As I had freezing problems, last year I lagged the external pipework with 25 mm thickness Armaflex. The extreme weather last winter still caused me some problems, at the junction with the downpipe.

Looks like I need self-regulating heater tape + thermostat + additional lagging over the junction with the rectangular downpipe.

As it is a rainwater downpipe, it is open at the top. Am I wasting my time (or money) trying to heat the bottom of this? Should I just try to ensure that the actual waste pipe is heated

I can find some suitable parts at TLC, and a few specialist suppliers.

Can anybody recommend a good value kit for the job?

Where would I find off cuts of sheet Armaflex at a reasonable price?

Chris

Reply to
Chris J Dixon
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Can you not run the condensate pipe (from a boiler?) into another drain? I'm not sure If it can even go into rainwater! Or have got the wrong end of the stick?

Reply to
Dean Heighington

I posted the full story a couple of times earlier in the year, and didn't really get anything back which was particularly useful. Here it is again:

My boiler is in the integral garage, and the condensate drain was taken through the wall, vertically down for a short distance to join with an existing 32 mm pipe, the drain from a sink. This then runs at a shallow angle for about 3 metres, where it joins into the rainwater downpipe, eventually discharging into a soakaway. (I didn't fit the sink, I know it is not really correct.)

As I had freezing problems, last year I lagged the external pipework with 25 mm thickness Armaflex. The extreme weather last winter still caused me some problems, at the junction with the downpipe. Luckily, I was able to thaw it relatively easily, and then kept the pipe clear by periodically running water from the sink to prevent any ice accumulation.

There are no possible alternative drainage points.

Since, by its nature, the downpipe will be open to air, I don't see much point in trying to get sheet insulation around the junction point.

(1) I could consider routing the solvent-weld drain internally through the garage, to reduce the exposure, but it would be a fiddly run, and the junction point issue still arises.

(2) In addition to (1), I could, adapting a recent suggestion in a different context, use a swept-tee in place of a 90 degree bend, and insert a solvent weld screw-cap end in the "unused" leg of the tee, just before it passes through the wall. When it freezes, I could remove the cap and allow it to drain into a bucket. This is fine so long as it doesn't have to be left unattended.

(3) I could use trace heating, either with the installation as it is, or having modified as (1) above. I guess this still requires me to lag the heated area, with hand-crafted chunks of expensive Armaflex.

Any thoughts and experiences on the best way to proceed, to get the best result for least work and expense?

Chris

Reply to
Chris J Dixon

Condidering my downpipe froze solid last winter you would probably need to heat it to the bottom.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Sorry Chris. Condensate drains are notorious for freezing up and yours should defo not be going into a soakaway, along with the basin waste... Not

100% on laws but am sure it's fineable offence. I can only suggest that you lag the pipe with foam lagging and then perhaps larger diameter around that and then cloth round that and deal with freezing on an as it happens basis with a hairdryer. Perhaps this winter won't be as severe! Not what you want to hear I'm sure but you really should be looking at alternative route to sewer drain.
Reply to
Dean Heighington

If the condenate cannot go into a soakaway then whey can you buy soakaway kits for condensing boilers?

Reply to
ARWadsworth

That just isn't feasible, I can't see that there is a route available.

The soil stack is internal, in the external corner of the kitchen, which has a solid floor, was recently refitted, and I hope will see me out.

In any case, any route from boiler to soil pipe would also cross the back door, so it is a complete non-starter.

If I were to consider for a moment pumping upwards, the bathroom is above the kitchen, another expensive job I hope never to have to disturb. Joists run perpendicular to the route, which is covered by the rather large bath, as does the kitchen extractor duct, completely blocking the route.

Chris

Reply to
Chris J Dixon

Agreed. But...

When investigating this issue a few years ago, I was advised to contact the Environment Agency. I identified the geographic location, they looked it up, and sent me a letter giving permission. I was given to understand that this permission is required.

Reply to
polygonum

The easiest solution would be to put a 'T' piece into the existing pipe, not far from when it leaves the boiler. On the T off, put a iso valve, easiest would be one with a handle, then put a hosepipe after that into a bucket beneath the boiler.

Then when freezing weather is expected, you can connect the hosepipe, site the bucket and open the valve. Your condensate will then run into the bucket, and you wont have a frozen pipe. Cost of parts £10ish, 30 minutes to fit it, 2 minutes to set it up whenever needed. 2 minutes to change it back.

No ongoing cost of heating a waste pipe.

I cannot see any other cost effective measure to cure it. Alan.

Reply to
A.Lee

While it may not be legal to drain the basin into a soakaway you can drain the condensate into one. If you are feeling "green" you can always use limestone gravel and watch it dissolve as it neutralizes the acid in the condensate.

Reply to
dennis

Thus releasing additional CO2 ... not very "green" !

Nick

Reply to
Nick Leverton

Yes I could only see this way as a cheap solution too. Not convenient but if expense and site conditions prevent another solution then this is the path of least resistance :)

Also, some councils may permit condensate drains to a soak away but do any allow basin waste into one as this situation has?

Reply to
Dean Heighington

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