Which oil to lube paper shredder?

What substitute oil can I use to save me the cost of buying an additional special oil for my Fellowes cross-cut shredder used in my home office?
Shredder manufacturers say to avoid WD40.
It seems some shredder oils are the consistency of a light machine oil which is heavier than I would have predicted.
I wonder if some of the newer lubes (graphite sprays, PTFE, etc) would do a good job? I guess the main requirements are probably
(1) to avoid the oil dripping off the blades soon (2) to have enough lubricant powert os top wear (3) to avoid holding paper dust such that over time it becomes congealed.
======================= Advice pages on the internet seem confused:
<http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid 060830093845AA7venA> (1) mineral oil.......food grade (2) Mineral oil or sewing machine oil. (3) We use 5W30 motor oil ours and it has been working fine for a year and a half. (4) use mineral oil. if you use any type of pertroleum based oil it will get on the paper you are shredding, and in turn get into the land fill. i know you are saying it is such a small amount, but how many shreders are out there??? imagine if everyone used regular oil in their shreders.... imagine the amount of oil that would go into the land fill, and then into the water table. (5) They are all lubricants. Any oil is fine, WD-40 or whatever you have. (6) A very light weight oil. sewing machine oil should do it.
[AFAIK mineral oil is a petroleoum oil]
=============== I have tended to use a silicone spray lubricant or a silicon + PTFE spray like these. However but they do not seem to provide enough lube to prevent cuttings staying on the shredder blade (and I am not applying so much lube thatthe cuttings stick to the blade). http://www.maplin.co.uk/Silicone_Grease_with_PTFE.search http://www.maplin.co.uk/Multi_Purpose_Silicone_Grease.search
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Good idea - it is not a lubricant.
Geo
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and it's really good for washing old lubricants off (e.g. prior to replacing them).
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WD40 is not a general purpose lubricant. It is a penetrating oil. Its designed purpose is to ooze into cracks between pieces of metal that have been frozen together by rust/pressure/etc. and provide enough lubrication to allow them to be separated. The secret of WD40 is in the *volatile* components, which give it a low surface energy (google "angle of repose") so that it spreads out on the metal surface and displaces absorbed water (which leads to oxidation of the metal - rust).
You want a lubricant that is non-volatile, even at operating temperatures. As a GP lubricant my lab used motor oil (SAE 50 or less) for most applications. In sensitive applications where microliter amounts were needed, but excess would cause contamination problems, we applied it with an insulin syringe.

The heat of normal operation will reduce the viscosity of the oil somewhat.

Dry lubricants can be very useful. We used Dow-Corning's Moly-Kote (molybdenum disulfide base) for anything requiring high temperature stability, low vapor pressure, or where servicing down-time is expensive. Downside is that the aerosol cans are messy to use: if delicate application was required we sprayed a small amount into a small container and then painted/daubed the Moly-Kote where needed.

Correct. Petroleum oil is simply an unspecified mixture of hydrocarbons with a known boiling range: As a rough guide: http://eesc.columbia.edu/courses/u4735/projections/pitman/pet.fractions.html http://chemed.chem.purdue.edu/genchem/topicreview/bp/1organic/coal.html

Your problem may be static electricity. The cuttings from a paper shredder are ideal for the old static electricity experiment of running a plastic comb through someone's hair and holding it over the shredded paper.
Look to electrically grounding the moving parts.
Tom Davidson Richmond, VA
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tadchem wrote:

Or run the shredder in the bathroom. I don't think I'd use mineral oil; after a while it would become gunk and have to be cleaned.
/BAH
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tadchem wrote:

Why do the makers describe it as "The world's number one multi-purpose lubricant" then?
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Dave - The Medway Handyman
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The Medway Handyman wrote:

not sure but a company I worked for banned its use as it caused more problems than it fixed, and it became a disciplinary offence if you were caught using it, and we were then issued with a normal oil can, I did read on the web under certain conditions it will corrode metal(which might be a myth)
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Kevin R
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On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 14:34:29 UTC, "The Medway Handyman"

Marketing.
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The information contained in this post is copyright the
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Absolutely. As someone noted above, WD40 is NOT a "lubricant". It is a penetrating substance designed to loosen rusted fasteners and the like. They market it as something you can spray on to "protect" metal objects, but that is just hype. Truth is that the stories about WD40 rusting metal are NOT myth! IT DOES do that! And anyone using it on a shredder to "protect" the metal from corrosion needs to be paying the office fines! WD40 is good stuff for what it does. If you are taking an old muffler off a car it can't be beat. But beware the "metal protection" nonsense. It has the OPPOSITE effect!
As for oiling a shredder or any other thing you might be temped to use WD40 on, I'd recommend good old 10W-30 Motor oil it usually does a great job both protecting metal from rust and lubricating. Wax is OK, (from wax paper) but tends to be thick and not get into all the right places. However it does have an advantage that the wax lubricates without getting all sticky and having dirt and abrasive paper powder mix with it. Olive oil, I'd suspect is not the best lubricant. I'd say if you think motor oil is too heavy then the next choice would be sewing machine oil.
...or you could just feed the whole sub into the shredder paper and all...
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On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 12:06:56 -0700 (PDT), Benj wrote:

Plusgas is a much better penetrating, nut/bolt freeing product. Remember what the the WD stands for "water displacer", it's good at that but for lubrication or nut freeing there are much better products about.

Thats probably the best thing to do, save you having to eat the ghastly thing.
--
Cheers
Dave.




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Dave Liquorice wrote:

The best stuff around for penetrating used to be Zep 45 but I think it was renamed to Zep Twister. They also have a soy based stuff but I never used it. They really know chemicals. www.zep.com
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replying to Bob Eager, Gaby wrote: How can you own someone else's comments? BS, no, I don't want to copy this thread, just saying
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On 28/05/17 10:44, Gaby wrote:

Dunno. I suggest you ask google's, facebook's, twitter's lawyers....

Dribbling in from howmeowners hub again.
Sight.
that site needs pwning by hackers
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On 28/05/2017 10:44, Gaby wrote:

Since you did not quote any of the original message, I have no idea what you talking about.
However at a guess, I would suggest you read:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet_quoting
In case you are not aware, you *are* posting to usenet, not a web forum.
--
Cheers,

John.
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On 28/05/2017 10:44, Gaby wrote:

This might assist you with posting to a newsgroup, albeit through a website: https://tools.ietf.org/html/rfc1855
- If you are sending a reply to a message or a posting be sure you summarize the original at the top of the message, or include just enough text of the original to give a context.
The date of the post you're replying to (2008) might also suggest you're new to this.
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On 28/05/2017 15:01, Fredxxx wrote:

Its interesting that HOH posters almost never reply to threads after they have commented - I expect they only get notified of new posts when they are made though the web site, and hence never see the responses from elsewhere.
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John.
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On 29/05/17 00:37, John Rumm wrote:

Prezactly why I am as blatantly and obscenely rude as possible.
One might expect SOME reaction. There has never been any. Once concludes there is no pint in responding to them except to make a potty mess of their pretty little site.
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Religion is regarded by the common people as true, by the wise as
foolish, and by the rulers as useful.
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On Monday, 29 May 2017 10:18:26 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Occasionally people do.
NT

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On 29/05/2017 00:37, John Rumm wrote:

Are you suggesting Homeowners Hub is spamming the newsgroups?
I'm sure they would never stoop to this level!
How many genuine posts do we get from this website? Any increase on '0'?
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On 29/05/2017 10:20, Fredxxx wrote:

There have been a few, but again never a response to any answers given to questions.
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John.
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