Which dishwasher - semi or fully integrated

Hi, I am planning a new kitchen and am not sure on the type of washer. Does a semi integrated just a have door and no unit, and a fully integrated have a unit? Which is preferred?

For the electrics, is is best to install a socket behind the dishwasher or get one installed above the countertop?

Thank you

Reply to
nafuk
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Hi, I am planning a new kitchen and am not sure on the type of washer. Does a semi integrated just a have door and no unit, and a fully integrated have a unit? Which is preferred?

For the electrics, is is best to install a socket behind the dishwasher or get one installed above the countertop?

Thank you

Reply to
nafuk

When I last had an integrated one it had no worktop type top and the front had fittings for a door to match the cupboard doors. However as the door to the dishwasher opens from the top the door fittings were a bit complex

Not sure what a semi integrated is

Replacements have been standard appliances much cheaper and easier to fit.

I normally site a socket in an adjoining cupboard for any under worktop appliance.

Cheaper that socket below with isolating switch above, neater than trying to get the cable through or behind worktop And sods law dictates that a socket behind will always be at the deepest part of the appliance so it won't push back far enough to quite line up with the other doors

Tony

Reply to
TMC

I don't recall any integrated appliance apart from an oven needing a unit as they all need the full height from floor to worktop.

They just need

Reply to
TMC

I've fitted a couple of dishwashers which are designed to go into a cupboard rather than replace one. Creda/Hotpoint have done one like this, and Homark (B&Q), although these two and very different in design.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Integrated has a full door covering it completely. Semi integrated uses a smaller door and leaves the control panel on show - a drawer sized strip at the top. Neither need a cabinet.

Get the socket fitted behind the unit next to the dishwasher with an access hole so you can get at it without moving the DW.

A
Reply to
auctions

Going through exactly the same process ATM.

Depends whether or not you intend complying with Part P. :-)

Personally, I'm going with a switched spur above the counter feeding down to an unswitched socket behind the d/w.

Reply to
The Wanderer

Which is all fine and dandy until the fuse goes in the d/w plug

jon

Reply to
Jonathan Pearson

Yes we had one of those years ago - seemed very appealing at the time because as you say, no trashing of the existing kitchen required at all. However, it was a dreadful thing - always going wrong and very small - once our first-born arrived on the scene it soon went.

David

Reply to
Lobster

The Creda is ~15 years old. Only fault so far was a new main motor/pump at 3 years old, as the water seal leaked into the motor bearing which went rusty.

The Homark is 6 years old. A few years back, it stopped heating for a few washes, but then mended itself and has worked without any problems since. I noticed its RFI supressor had exploded and self-fused at some time in the past, but I didn't notice when that happened. I know someone in France with one too (under a different name), and it lasted ~15 years. Drain pump motor ceased up eventually.

Neither are suitable for a large family. The Homark is used when the family all come round, but tends to get run a couple of times for a large meal.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

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