Whats the best method

[Brew]

A quick question, new kitchen (small) extention. Whats the best way of finishing walls. Browing and finish, dob n dad board or board fixed direct to walls.

Thnaks

Jb

[John Rumm]

Are the walls already insulated?

[Brew]

Built to buidling standards. Brick outer wall, insulation in cavity and Celcon block inner wall.

many thanks

Jb

[Phil L]

Browning = too laborious and also way too expensive.

Board fixed to walls - how? - if you are thinking of nailing directly into blocks, don't bother, they won't last 5 years.

D&D is by far the easiest and cheapest, with the added bonus of achieving the best results and it adds a small amount of insulative properties to the wall, it's a no-brainer really.

[John Rumm]

In which case I would go with traditional plaster if you are not in a hurry. Makes for easier fixing of cabinets etc later.

[Roger Mills]

Apart from making it nigh-on impossible to get a firm fixing for heavy wall cabinets, it's great!

[Phil L]

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for cabinets anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in the brickwork

[Phil L]

You shouldn't be using anything smaller than 3 inch screws for cabinets anyway, and with D&D, two inches of them will still be in the brickwork

[dennis]

I need 5" screws to get 2" into the actual wall.

1/2" for the board + at least 1" for the gap (and frequently more).

[andrew]

...and less waste offcuts of plasterboard, so me too.

AJH

[ericp]

No Dennis. Just because it's D&D does not mean you have to sacrifice half your room volume. A little care and thought can mean 9mm board goes on with little gap to mention and the board is like solid plaster.

[Phil L]

If there is a 1 inch gap, then it is an exception rather than the norm, but even so, 1in plus 1/2 for the board leaves 3.5ins into the brickwork using

5in screws, not 2 inch. You should be using 3.5 inch screws if you want to get 2in into the masonary

[dennis]

Well if it wasn't block you might be right but 2" into block is not enough.

[Weatherlawyer]

What you do is put a line of adhesive where the cabinets are going to be fixed. As for the depth of the screw penetration, I have never heard of such a thing.

What you do with a brick background is go into the firmest part of the wall a screw depth and half the plug length IIRC. (And hope you are not going to find an hollow or a wire or pipe.)

IIRC, an engineering principle of screw threads is that 5 revolutions gives as much grip as the mechanics will allow.

What I presume the poster who advised the three inches meant or misunderstood is that with a 1" grip of the substrate and 2" of stuff to be fixed, you need 3".

If you are going through a modesty block 3/4", 3/4" of cabinet, 1/2" of plasterboard, 1/2" of daub 1/4" of plaster and the length of a rawlplug you want more than a 3" screw.

[Brew]

Thanks Guys

Now I'm totally confused, before i was just uncertain.. :-) LOL

Oh well it will have to do after my hols

Thanks to all

Jb

[Roger Mills]

But that's only half the story! Unless you manage to go through a dab, you'll be bending the plasterboard into the gap and the fixing won't be really firm. Worse still, that part of the screw going through thin air will experience a bending load - and screws are only designed for tension and shear.

As someone else has said, if you know exactly where the cabinet fixings need to be, and if you're fixing your own plasterboard, you can - in theory - make sure that you have dabs in the right place. However, theory is easier than practice!

[<me9]

D&D is what I went for. A no brainer. A little care in setting levels helps enormously. I used screws into plugs to do so accurately, then set the dots to the same level in both planes.

[<me9]

You just make sure the dabs are in the right place. Mine haven't fallen off in 20 years. Forward planning. If not it can still be got round without too much difficulty.