Weird Puller

presumably you're not intended to use all the slots at once, just use e.g 3 that line-up, then rotate it a bit, as you'd have to do with this "universal" puller?

What do you mean by "rotate it a bit"? If I can only use 3 bolts I'm not sure they're gong to be enough. The bastard is really seized on there good and proper!

Have you asked the friend you borrowed it from? He ought to have some idea of how it works.

Then I suspect you're in the realms of a manufacturer's part, if such a thing exists. 3 bolts should be plenty, I'd have thought.

Not really sure what I was thinking, repositioning it onto different bolts would be unlikely to make any difference, but going by your third picture

for a 4-stud pattern you'd use the N and S slots for a 5 stud you'd use the N, SE and SW slots for a 6 stud you'd use the S, NE an NW slots

Three is going to be all you can use.

And for other types of pullers, you usually only get two or three legs and a single bolt.

Sounds like you might not know some of the tricks for stuck hubs. Always worth soaking the joint with plus gas, diesel + ATF, WD40 at a pinch. Also, do the thing up really tight, then thump the hub sideways with a lump hammer. Or set up a slide hammer and thump it axially. If thumping under tension won't release it then you may be into gas torch territory.

You need an even pull so two or three bolts should be enough. Many other pullers only have two or three connection points. You appear to have a universal version that will adapt to more than one configuration.

Good ideas. I would try battering it with an breaker from the opposite side whilst the puller holds it under tension. There's something about the fast repetition rate of a breaker that works magic in these situations.

Good points. Obviously, if you have access to hammer it in the "off" direction that is the thing to do but sometimes access is restricted (hence the slide hammer).

Yup, access is restricted regardless of the make and model. But fortunately the force does not need to be directed in opposition to the puller. Right-angles will do if needs be. The important thing is that a suitable flange or the body of the casing is subjected to sharp, repetitive shocks even if not under tension at the time. Works wonders. Trust me. :-)

Exactly (but I'd keep re-tensioning it as it moves, to maintain alignment). And tension it as tight as you dare.

I have been successful using the above suggestions.

I've taken a brake drum off, which was quite easy once I remembered to release the handbrake. :)

Newsy, you are the Main Man with that little bit of icing on the cake. Excellent advice! --

"There are, besides, eternal truths, such as Freedom, Justice, etc., that are common to all states of society. But Communism abolishes eternal truths, it abolishes all religion,and all morality, instead of constituting them on a new basis; it therefore acts in contradiction to all historical experience."

- The Communist Manifesto, Marx & Engels.

I can be honest to say I've never done that. However I have pulled the brake shoe retaining pins out of the backplate, on account of a significant wear ridge on the drum; where I pulled the shoes off with the brake drum. Automatic brake adjustment with no manual access or reset can be a real pain.

Afterwards they were attacked with an angle grinder to remove the ridge. That made things easy!

Some real DIY goes on in this group!

The last time I had drums with ridges that bad, I was going to nip round to my parents' and put them on the lathe, but Ebay came up with a pair of brand-new ones for £12!