waterproofing leather boots

[Nick Odell]

Still made in Argentina to the same quality standard. These are the boots I was talking about elsewhere in the thread.

Nick

[michael adams]

If used sparingly but regularly and left overnight dubbin buffs up to a respectable sheen if not quite a mirror finish with no hint of stickiness. It can also be used on leather bike saddles both underneath and on top where it polishes up to a proper shine.

michael adams

...

[RobertL]

Decades ago I was advised that animal oils (neetsfoot oil etc.) would event= ually damage the leather and that pur mineral oil was the stuff to use (th= ere was no silicone oil then). I was told the best mineral 'oil' to use wa= s pure vasalene. I used to melt it on a low heat and then the leather woul= d soak it up nicely.=20

Robert

=20

[stuart noble]

Tackiness in warm weather is the only problem. Microcrystalline wax would be ideal in theory because it's inert, flexible, and has a relatively high melting point. I guess it might render the boots a little stiff in cold weather though. You can't win :)

[polygonum]

Is that when your boots disappear to Guantanamo Bay?

Had one pair of boots which came ready-treated with silicone oil. Have to say, they did stay waterproof and amazingly clean without further treatment - until the sole disintegrated...

[Alan Dicey]

I think the idea of "reversed leather" is to keep the skin-side inside, where it won't get scuffed. How well that works in practice is anybody's guess, I've never had a pair like that.

The "dubbin rots stitching" rumour has been going around since I were a lad, so fifty years at least.

On my previous Scarpa Monte Rosa's I used the olive-oil treatment: pour oil into one boot until it's full, leave until it starts to ooze out, pour into other boot, ditto. Pour remaining oil into bottle for next treatment, oil remaining in boot will sink into the leather. Obviously you get your olive oil from the vet, not some extra virgin at the supermarket.

Worked an absolute treat, the boots stayed waterproof and flexible for years.

Modern boots have inconvenient linings and also the leather is frequently treated before you get them e.g. Scarpa with HS12, so you apply more HS12 or Aqueous Nikwax, which Scarpa endorses.

[PeterC]

ISTR castor oil being mentioned in here - was that so?

Anybody know what HiTech's IonMask is like for performance and durability. The hydrophobic treatments rely on cleanliness - not easy with garments and impossible with boots.

[Gordonbp]

[Alan Dicey]

Peter, you're quite right it was castor oil. Oh, the embarassment . . .

[Lyndon]

"Alan Dicey" wrote

Peter:

Don't suppose it works very well on Gortex lined boots?

[nmm1]

Not compared to the embarrassment caused by mixing those up when cooking :-)

Regards, Nick Maclaren.

[Ophelia]

Pretty cheeks though ...

[Alan Dicey]

Indeed it would completely stop the Goretex from working. Might make the boots more waterproof though . . .

My experience with Goretex lined boots is that the lining lets in water after a short while. I suspect it tears along the stitching attaching the sole, but that's just a guess.

[nmm1]

The claims often made for Goretex are complete twaddle, and it is not fully waterproof even when intact. However, the rate at which water can get through it is very low, so that would account only for dampness. But the same applies to its breathability (which fails in very wet or cold conditions), so water inside could be condensed sweat.

Regards, Nick Maclaren.

[Phil Cook]

The breathing action of Goretex works best in dry conditions, once it is wet outside you can't pump enough water vapour through it to keep dry inside. Its benefits in leather footwear are dubious beyond the box ticking much favoured by advertisers.

The liner will keep liquid water in equally well as out. The usual failure mode of the membrane is grit or toenail punctures. Of course the boot and its liner has a great big hole in it from the start, how else would you get your foot in?

[Rick Hughes]

eventually damage the leather and that pur mineral oil was the stuff to use (there was no silicone oil then). I was told the best mineral 'oil' to use was pure vasalene. I used to melt it on a low heat and then the leather would soak it up nicely.

Problem is that softens the leather, and you will lose support on a boot.

[nmm1]

Yes. Until and unless the leather breaks down enough to start letting water through in large amounts. I had to get rid of one pair of boots where that happened.

A simple problem in four dimensional topology :-)

Regards, Nick Maclaren.

[newshound]

And I was just going to suggest some oregano, and a splash of balsamic vinegar

[David Hill]

Well the caster oil should keep you running

[Ophelia]

lol