Washer dryer - h&C inlet - use only one

The simple solution is to run the hot tap before switching machine on.

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

There may not be a hot tap near the machine.

Why can't you?

I see so the kitchen is quite huge?

Why dont the both of you?

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Oops, replied too soon: you answered this elsewhere...! Personally, I always run the hot tap in the adjacent sink until it gets warm, before firing up the washer (still trying to train SWMBO to do so). But even without that, I don't see why it's *better* to connect both inlets to the cold supply.

David

Oops, replied too soon: you answered this elsewhere...! Personally, I always run the hot tap in the adjacent sink until it gets warm, before firing up the washer (still trying to train SWMBO to do so). But even without that, I don't see why it's *better* to connect both inlets to the cold supply.

David

This is a wind-up, yes?

And *all* machines are cold fill on a 40 deg C wash.

For the very few times that we use a boil wash, I'd rather use cold fill and have the option to have a bath at the same time. Especially as a boil wash usually means I'm covered in s*it for some reason.

Sir needs a good gas boiler then. No storage tank, just hot water as and when it's needed. Washing machine AND a bath at the same time.

Dave

Only if I wanted constant cold water. Bit short on gas out here.

The washing machine may not be in the kitchen.

Eh?

Why can't you connect both inlets to the cold water supply?

Nope, I do it.

It drags the pipe full of cold water out so hot goes straight into the machine on filling.

The wasted water is offset by not having to heat the 2 pints or so of cold water between the machine and the HW cylinder.

Cheers

Paul.

If you are on a meter, you may find that the cost of the wasted water outweighs the cost of electrically heating the water, remembering that you need to heat less if it is done in the machine, as you aren't heating the pipework and contents, too.

Christian.

Interesting. Since it will run hot before filling, it *will* heat the pipework anyway. What would one need to do the sums properly? (Of course, £sd isn't the only relevant cost.)

Douglas de Lacey

The water wastage is very significant environmentally (and in direct cost terms if metered).

The most environmentally friendly solution where frequent but short bursts of hot water are required at a tap is to use a manual secondary circulation loop. A simple short period timer (set to exactly the right time for the length of the dead leg) could run the circulation pump and ensure that hot water is available without wasting a drop (or keeping the pipework unnecessarily hot for long periods of the day).

Christian.

On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 17:08:58 -0000 someone who may be "Christian McArdle" wrote this:-

to have the source of hot water near the most commonly used sink. In a house this will usually be the kitchen sink. A hot water cylinder or instant heater by this sink will minimise losses.

Hi Mary... Oh!

Nope, if I was, i'd put the water in a bucket for the garden.

electrically heating

Well, possibly. But only I do it, not 'er indoors ..

Cheers

Paul.

This is not usually practical. You can't put a whopping great hot water cylinder in a run of kitchen units. Also, people don't mind waiting so long at a kitchen sink as they do in the bathroom.

Noone likes shivering next to the shower waiting for the hot water.

Christian.

On Thu, 26 Jan 2006 10:07:17 -0000 someone who may be "Christian McArdle" wrote this:-

That rather depends on how the house is designed. If it is somewhat designed around the heating system (to save energy) then this is no great problem. In a bungalow that implies a central services core, with kitchen and bathrooms close to this. In a multi-storey house it implies these things being arranged vertically. If this ideal cannot be attained then instant heaters in strategic locations have the advantage.