Wanted - something like epoxy/fibreglass resin but easier to use, needn't be as strong

I'm looking for a way to make something made of fabric become rigid. The obvious readily available stuff for doing this would be the resin used for fibreglass. I could use this but it's relatively expensive, a bit difficult and messy to use (two-part etc.) and much stronger than I need.
So, can anyone recommend an alternative? A 'one part' liquid that just needs to dry would be ideal, brush or spray application. It needs to be stronger/stiffer than starch or the (probably latext based) blind stiffening sprays, but, as I said doesn't need to be like cured fibreglass resin. I guess some sort of varnish would probably do what I want but what would be best given that they're not usually *designed* for such a use.
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Diluted PVA? Not waterproof, though. Or check what they used on fabric car bodies, etc.
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On 17/10/2017 10:06, Chris Green wrote:

How rigid and how much flex does it need to support when dry?

It isn't the two part that causes trouble it is the heat generated by the curing and the relatively low viscosity at the early stages.

The latex resin sold for dipping mould making at craft shops might do what you want provided that the fabric is not subject to too much stress and strain. Might be easier to use the right sort of fabric instead.
https://www.fredaldous.co.uk/products/latex-liquid-rubber-1-litre
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Yes, though it might not be stiff enough. I've toyed with trying that for some other ideas so it would be worth a go anyway.
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On 17/10/17 11:09, Martin Brown wrote:

Plaster of paris would be far stiffer
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On 17/10/2017 12:45, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

But not very waterproof. If he said what he wanted it to use it for it would be a lot easier to suggest a sensible choice of material(s).
If I wanted something really strong and tough I would probably use a two part epoxy paint and several layers with glass fibre mat in between. For a small job a couple of tubes of long working time standard epoxy. It is OK so long as it is a thin coat when it is curing. Bulk it gets mad hot.
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On 17/10/17 13:04, Martin Brown wrote:

Id buy 5 litres of poroper polyester resin and hardener.
Bloody site cheaper than poxy.
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When they used to make aircraft from fabric over wood they use some kind of dope but it was quite firm, maybe a bit too firm. Brian
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On Tuesday, 17 October 2017 19:20:54 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:

wasn't firm at all of course, just pulled tight
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On 17/10/2017 10:06, Chris Green wrote:

Does the final product need to be waterproof?
PVA (dries transparent)
<http://www.wilko.com/glue-tape+corrector-fluid/wilko-pva-glue-500ml/invt/0300256
Semi waterproof <https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p22271?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_mediumed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=sZALnCRnp_dc&pcrid2453205744&pkw=&pmt=&product"271&gclidIaIQobChMI1Nj5mrP31gIV6jLTCh3pGA6_EAQYBCABEgJGRfD_BwE>
Roseal wet rot resin - one part with the consistency of water - solvent based so possibly not suitable with some fabrics. https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p94441?table=no
This will dry hard so bending the cloth afterwards will crack it (the same will happen with fibre glass resin and perhaps anything else.
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Yes

Presumably that's *not* waterproof.

That would probably do, it's not going to be in water.

I want it to dry hard.
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On Tuesday, 17 October 2017 12:33:05 UTC+1, Chris Green wrote:

e
vt/0300256>

utm_source=googleshopping&utm_mediumed&utm_campaign=googleshopping feed&mkwid=sZALnCRnp_dc&pcrid2453205744&pkw=&pmt=&product"27 1&gclidIaIQobChMI1Nj5mrP31gIV6jLTCh3pGA6_EAQYBCABEgJGRfD_BwE>

since you're not willing to tell us what we'd need to know, replies seem po intless
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On 17/10/2017 10:06, Chris Green wrote:

Not wishing to be obtuse, but exactly what properties are you after. Nothing is really rigid, even glass bends a bit before it breaks. How strong does it have to be? Like postcard material? Like metal shim? How thick can you make it? Does the final appearance matter?
Sounds to me like you may be on the right lines with "varnish". After all, even the skins of some WW2 military planes were covered with cloth and stiffened with "dope". Does anyone still make balsa aeroplanes covered with tissue paper and stiffened with "dope"?
Traditional shellac type varnish will be stiff, but brittle. Polyurethane is more flexible, but tougher and stronger. Are you looking at large areas?
A clue to the exact application might help!
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On 17/10/2017 11:16, newshound wrote:

I believe that dope covered fabric isn't UV stable.
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Whatever happened to banana oil?
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On 17/10/17 12:02, Bill wrote:

Can still be got, but very few people use it
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No problem, this isn't going to be exposed to sunlight, at least not for any significant amount of time.
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On 17/10/17 11:33, alan_m wrote:

Aircaft lifetimes are not that long either in war...I beleive the average life expectancy of a spitfire was 6 weeks, representing perhaps 160 hours in the air.
Not even long enough to need a plug change
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On 17/10/2017 12:48, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

WW1 pilots life expectancy around two weeks. As they didn't carry parachutes every life lost was an aircraft lost.
Spitfire metal skinned - Hurricane fabric skinned
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Remembering that von Richthofen landed his plane after being fatally wounded, I was going to say “not all”, but then Wikipedia says that although his plane was relatively undamaged, souvenir collectors soon took it to bits. So it was lost all the same.
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