Using pipe bender to bend 22mm copper pipe

Hum, I haven't had this problem. Yes, I do sometimes use my weight on the pipe bender for 22mm pipe, but I've never had it ripple. You might try annealing the copper first, in case it's work-hardened in transit or storage. Heat the area to be bent with a blowlamp and then let it cool off before bending it. If you've got lots of bends to do and it has all work-hardened, that's going to be a pain...

Bending 28mm without a pipe bender, now that was fun...

I hire a floor standing one as necessary. Too big to store for the odd time I've needed one.

The benders handles are probably to short to get any kind of leverage on them for the larger pipe. Try extending the handles, either with pieces of tubing or with drilled out bits of timber. This should make life a bit easier for you, and make your bends more neat.

I tried hiring one for 28mm tube on one occasion, but hire shops don't have many and it meant booking one of them some weeks in advance so they could get hold of the _one_ allocated to the area. This didn't fit my timescales.

I have an old book on handling copper tube and used one of the more traditional methods instead. This was to anneal just the area for the bend, pack the tube with dry sand, and then bend it under force, by standing on the pipe whilst supporting it either side on cushions of sand bags. It worked brilliantly with no collapsing or wrinkling whatsoever. I then spent some time making sure I'd got all the sand dust out as it was used as a gas pipe and I didn't want any sand dust getting into jets and gas valves.

Don't make things up. You would "like" to rent one.

• 22mm using bends and when using elbows and tees use 28mm with reducers in them. This makes the restriction on a 22mm elbow near that of a bend.
• Two parrallel 22mm pipes. This may end up cheaper as 22mm is quite cheap to 28mm pipe and fittings.

There are a few things that make the pipe ripple. One is keep all the parts of the bends tight with no excessively loose bits. Old benders ripple for this reason as they are worn. Apply "even" pressure as jerks tend to ripple.

On our gravity fed HW system (to avoid airlocks) I did the two 90-degree bends in the 28mm pipework with pairs of 45-degree elbows. Much less aggro and it looks far better than the original bent pipework in there.

I always use the correct tools for the job - unlike some. Like to come round and inspect my 1" pipework? It's a thing of beauty.

Stick to what you know best. Bodging plastic.

Two 45s together restrict less than one elbow, and yes they do look neater if used properly.

This man is a fool. Anyone who's ever done any pipe bending realises the extreme limitations of using a spring - especially in larger sizes. No pro worthy of the name would dream of not using a pipe bender where needed - and this has been the case for many a year.

And I thought an IMM would be smooth...

smooth as a babies bum.

Which precludes you.

Not when the pipe is annealed. Do Googl;e on annealing, you obviously know nothing of this. Amazing! from a man who twiddles knobs.

You can't do jobs, you are in fantasy land. Keep twiddling the knobs.

The surface of your brain certainly is.

And still you think that this stupidity of yours achieves something. You're the sort that gives village idiots a bad name.

So you recommend annealing pipe and then using a spring. Rather than a pipe bender. Any other time saving tips?

The pipe is annealed and the spring put in to prevent collapse. Duh! Keep twiddling knobs..