I'm attempting to bend a 22mm copper pipe with a (cheap) pipe bender
of the type
The pipe is few years old but I'm getting ripples on the underside of
Bottom of bend and top of bend photos
What is likely to be the problem? Pipe? Bending tool? Operator?
And is there a easy fix for future bends.
The same plumbers that daub sealant or PTFE tape over compression olives
by any chance?
Bending springs are used when hand bending tube - a knee for 15mm or
smaller or a block of wood with a smooth hole in for larger.
also handy for bending PVC conduit.
Springs are totally unnecessary for any reasonable bending machine.
Certainly not with a bending machine! Bending springs can be perhaps
thought of as a poor man's bending machine. They were far more popular
(and worked much better) with the softer thicker walled pipe of years ago.
The old FAQ entry sums them up pretty well:
Bending springs are still viable for fully annealed microbore pipe
(although often they are external springs). The also work fine with
thick walled 20mm plastic electrical conduit.
They will just about work on modern pipe, but IME its really not worth
the effort, and you waste far more pipe which at today's prices makes
the pipe bender a cheap option.
That does not make it "right". It could be the plumber was contending
with a poor quality or badly worn machine, and that was one way of
getting better quality bends with it.
I find my Hilmor GLM bender will do perfectly smooth bends in both 15
and 22mm by itself. Adding a spring would just be a waste of time.
(also worth noting its very difficult to use an internal spring into a
pipe cut with a pipe slice - the slight reduction in diameter makes it
hard to get the spring in and out even before bending the pipe).
The pipe bender used is, IMHO, much better than an internal spring.
That is the style I have always used at work. Sometimes used a spring at
home and extracting the spring can be difficult.
The problem is probably hardened pipe. Try annealing the pipe over all
the area to be bent (heat to red hot and then allow to cool naturally
before attempting to bend).
I have always found it easy enough to get bending springs out if you
have the end with the ring accessible. Rotate clockwise and it gets
smaller and pulls out easily. Fairly easily. Well, not too difficult.
But I have not used springs very much...
On Sun, 5 Oct 2014 12:41:03 +0100, tim..... wrote:
Have you tried to bend 22 mm pipe with an internal spring? Might work
with soft copper but not the normal half hard stuff.
Or you suggesting putting the spring in then using the bender?
Getting the spring out might be fun.
As for the OP. Lightly grease/lubricate all parts that touch the tube
to be bent. Make sure that the tube is fully seated into the groove
on the tool. Use the seperate bar part, groove to the pipe, between
the tools roller and tube.
Are you sure it's 22mm pipe, and not 3/4"?
Try annealing the copper along the area of the bend first.
It may have work-hardened over time in storage, particularly if
it has been subject to vibration.
To anneal copper, heat it up with a blowlamp (or over a gas stove
burner), and then let it cool (no need to quench it).
And to follow-up the other answer, no you do not put a bending
spring inside when using a proper pipe bender.
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Update - poor quality of tool. Temporarily I've tightened the the bolt
that holds most of the tool together as much as I dare to remove
some/most of the slop and I wedged in a nail between the half moon and
frame to stop it from moving.
The alignment between pieces of tool still leaves room for improvement.
I've now done a perfect 90 degree bend on the same pipe without it rippling.
Sods law says I cannot find my tin of washers which would fit the screw
holding the assembly together and a few weeks ago I had a clear-out and
chucked some metal pieces which would have been ideal as a shim behind
the half moon piece.
Yep, a bit of DIY modification and it works OK. A thin washer removed
all of the slop and a metal shim made from two disposable knife blades
glued to the former piece (and then ground to remove sharp edges)
ensured that it actually fitted more squarely/closely into its mate.
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