Has anyone used something like this
Any particular reason for putting it outside? As I understand it these things are all “room sealed”. Air for combustion and exhaust from/to the outside (although I confess I’m not familiar with that unit).
Tim
Used it's older much larger brother many years ago. Basically a burner inside a large tube plus fan. It worked ok, but no CO or CO2 monitoring. If I had to use one today I'd ensure I had monitors.
It seems easier (and safer) to keep the exhaust gases outside and pump warm air in than to have to get the exhaust gases out
Why burn diesel when kerosene is much much cheaper? The fumes coming out of it will contain CO2 and maybe some CO.
They seem a bit coy about how you route the exhaust gasses out of a vehicle.
Cheers
Dave R
I’m inclined to think that putting the exhaust gases outside would be a good idea. ;-) It does come with exhaust and inlet pipes and *probably* comes with instruction.
Tim
As long as you make sure that exhaust gases can’t enter the “room air” inlet. You’re gonna need two holes in your wall either way. Two small ones for combustion air inlet and exhaust if you mount it indoors, or two large ones for room air inlet and outlet if you mount it outside.
Tim
Yes, they do this on diesel campervan heaters.
Why do you need an air inlet? The outside mounted unit gets a fresh air supply.
Following up on other comments.
If you have your air intake outside, aren't you using extra energy to heat (very) cold air up all the time?
Shirley it is more efficient to circulate the warm(er) air inside the workshop unless you really want to flow air through (for example to remove damp).
Cheers
Dave R
Yes I have one in my concrete panel garage workshop. It needs a 20 amp start up power supply. I use one similar to these @ about £20 -
Very economical but has to work longer to combat draughts so the more you can insulate the workshop the better.
It will only need one hole to get the hot air into the garage/shed if it's mounted outside - I don't think many garages or sheds are hermetically sealed ;-) so I won't need an outlet. I agree that it's important that the exhaust gas can't be drawn into the air intake. I think the plan would be to have a hole in the garage and sheds for hot air input and to plug the hole when not required. Some of the left-over soil pipe might be OK but I need to check its temperature spec.
My son fitted one to a camper van conversion, he had 2 holes in the floor for in/out. I'd not thought of using something similar for a workshop until a pal mentioned the idea a few days ago
Yes, that's a good point. Perhaps I need to investigate exhaust couplings and silencers ...
current requirement is? I'd hoped to use a small 12V battery.
Beating the Cost of Living Crisis - using a diesel heater (boost) as a heat source
a small lithium 11.1V battery will easily to 20A for a minute or so
Surely the more you can draughtproof. Draught proofing is the first step to staying warm
No, the heater unit is mounted inside the van with holes through the floor or wall to take in combustion air and for the exhaust.
Why would you want to keep heating cold outside air rather than heat the air in the shed?
Tim
As has been pointed out, then you’re constantly heating cold outside air rather than warming the air in your shed. It’s very like a modern CH boiler in that the air that’s heated is completely separate from the combustion circuit and it’s perfectly safe to draw air for heating from inside the shed.
Tim
Well, I've just stumbled-on the answer:
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