Using a cheap Din Car Head Unit with HiFi Amp

Hi All,

I?ve recently purchased a cheap Chinese Head unit (Tuner, USB, Aux, Bluetooth) from the bay of the flea which I was intending to use in my daughters car.

However, I?d like to add the above functions to the shed HiFi and this seems like a very cheap way to do it.

The enclosed instructions aren?t much use, so I thought I?d tap the hive mind of uk diy.

The unit has 4 RCA sockets on the back (in addition to the standard Din power and speaker sockets), it claims these are two rear outputs and 2 rear outputs. I suspect it?s actually 2 front and 2 rear.

It also claims to want 12V power and to use a maximum of 15A.

IF I connect a relatively low output 12V bench supply (1 or 2 A from memory). And don?t connect any speakers, but just use 2 of the RCAs to feed the stereo input of a HiFi amp.

  1. Is anything likely to go up in smoke?

  1. Is it likely to work?

  2. Does anyone make a ready made case i coI?ll put it in and if so, what search term should I enter?

TIA

Chris

Reply to
cpvh
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No,

yerrs

No idea

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Hey, this *is* DIY!

Reply to
newshound

Indeed it is DIY, but I?m short of tuits.

But I have thought, I could get a second hand centre console from some car. I?ll have to think which one.

Reply to
cpvh

This sort of bracket would do for under-shelf mounting, or possibly even turn it upside down

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Reply to
spuorgelgoog

Well, it really depends on whether you know the pin outs and can block any dc paths and know if any remote signals need to be terminated in a special way to make the thing work. Don't car things these days have access codes as they need to be powered up all the time to not lock themselves out. First I think use some cables with capacitors in series and see what comes out and when. That is what I'd do if there is a shortage of English data. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff (Sofa 2)

My guess is it's probably OK - they must have thought about flat-battery-day where the battery can't provide enough amps without the voltage sagging badly.

However if you want a high current 12V PSU, get yourself a PS3 power supply from ebay for under a tenner. Go up to 32A fanless:

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Not sure about the best enclosure - I'm sure I've seen instrument cases with a bezel on the front roughly the same size as a DIN slot, but possibly not quite right. Make something out of wood?

Theo

Reply to
Theo

Thanks for all the replies guys.

I?ve done a little lateral thinking, and I think I should be able to pick up a scrap desktop PC with functioning PSU for next to nothing.

A little mollification, And I should be able to slot the head unit in the front of it, and the record deck will sit on top 11::^*>>))

Reply to
cpvh

Hi Brian,

It does have some English data, including where to put earth, permanent live and switched live.

I?m hoping that?s all I?ll need apart from RCA out, and that it won?t take much to set it up each time the power is turned on (don?t have a permanent supply to the shed at present).

Hopefully if it has the option of a PIN, it?s not mandatory (hopefully they would have included some instructions if it did).

I recently bought a second hand Sony CD Head Unit for the car, and that just worked (aside of the fact it was initially in ?demo mode? Which included ?LOOK, I CAN FLASH ALL MY LEDS (IN CONTRASTING COLOURS) IN TIME WITH THE MUSIC!!

Reply to
cpvh

Be aware that the PSU may not work without a dummy load on the 5V

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Hi Brian,

I don?t think I need to do the stuff with capacitors, but can you expand on where you would have used them?

And what you would hope to gain?

(Not suggesting you are wrong, just seeking to learn).

TIA

Chris

Reply to
cpvh

And a jumper to 'power good'.

Reply to
Bob Eager

A standard desktop one will. You'll find details of what pins to bridge to fire it up etc by Googling.

Do remember many car radios need a permanent 12v feed for their station memory, etc.

The other problem may be matching an external aerial to a car radio. And it may have separate inputs for FM and DAB.

You might also have ground loop problems connecting it to a domestic amp.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The lone green one to any black one.

Reply to
Andy Burns

That should be Power On,.

Power Good is an output from the PSU that signals that the rails are up to spec now.

Reply to
jon lopgel

Incorrect on the color.

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Reply to
jon lopgel

Cheers Dave,

I?m not bothered about the tuner, it?s the Bluetooth and USB I?m interested in.

The ground loop point is an interesting one.

Hopefully I?ll get away with it.

I have in the past used a device (VHS?) Connected to mains via a 2 core mains lead and It?s mono audio out connected to some sort of line in by just joining the inners of the RCAs together.

My mate said it would work, and it duly did!

I was really surprised!

Reply to
cpvh

Err, no ... that confirms that "power on" is green, short it to ground (black) to turn on.

"power good" is grey, but not necessary to turn it on, merely an indication that it has turned on.

Reply to
Andy Burns

I should have said that better, its not the LONE green.

Reply to
jon lopgel

How many do you see then?

Reply to
Andy Burns

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