URGENT Leaking hot water cylinder (pressurised) HELP

[RJ]

Ion exchange water softner? Time to do some more research!

Though the installation of unvented systems needs to be by a qualified plumber etc, why does a replacement when in effect, I guess, it'll be factory tested cylinder and all that needs is it to be disconnected and reconnected. All joins can be tested with cold pressure water, and all the other pipework is "as designed" and as per building regs by the original installer.

SO especially if its like-for-like, it should be a trivial job to replace cylinder and all anciliaries...?

Unless I'm missing something.

Oh more good news - can't find any Polystel references on the web - so no spares here and probably need just a replacement if I go that route.

Lots of ideas and research needed!!

[RJ]

Agree throughout. Would the thing come with instructions on how to test? And surely separate pressure and temp release valves would be sufficinet here. Thats what I have today, and clearly would ensure I had in the future!

If I can't locate Polystel, any recommendations for reasonable cost/performance replacements? Or anyone know of anyone who'd sell spares for Polystel ?

[Andy Hall]

According to Building Regulations, you are supposed to use a plumber certified in the installation of pressurised cylinders.

In practice, building control officers don't go round with detector vans.

Problems would arise if:

- Something goes wrong and the cylinder bursts or explodes or causes damage, especially if anyone were injured.

- You want to sell the property and the buyer's solicitor is vigilant and asks for a certificate with respect to the installation.

.andy

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[IMM]

I don't think you loked hard enough.

Heat banks can have immersions too.

Forget this idea.

[IMM]

Amazing! You gradually learning then.

>

[IMM]

Christian on this ng has just installed a DPS Pandora heat bank. Do a Google on Pandora. and look at it on

No overflow is required. You fill it up with hose and add the appropriate inhibitor.

The same pipes you have around the kaput unvented cylinder just need connecting to the heat bank. flow and return from the boiler, to the flow and return of the heat bank. The Pandora has an integral heating coil just like the unvented cylinder. The cold feed from the cold mains to the cold mains feed of the heat bank. The hot draw-off pipe at the top of the unvented cylinder is the DHW outlet on the heat bank. Forget the overflow pipe as it is not applicable. The wiring can be advised by the heat bank makers. Get one with a back up immersion heat, they supply them fitted and fit the thermostat too.

[IMM]

See my post on the Pandora. This looks like what you need. Simple, no overflow and only 4 pipes require connecting. Less work replacing with this than with a new unvented cylinder.

[RJ]

I've looked at the Pandora and spoken to the guys at heatweb - very helpful and he convinced me I could fit it! Pricey - but I guess every option I have will be as well!

So many thanks for this suggestion.

Still don't know what the red thing is....

[IMM]

The Pandora is about the same price as an unvented cylinder. But with the problems they have.

[Andy Hall]

The expansion vessel for the heating primary circuit.

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[Tim Hardisty]

Is it an immersion heater? Difficult to tell from the pictures whether it is sitting on and/or attached to pipework, or if it is sitting on the top of the cylinder.

Tim Hardisty. Remove HAT before replying

[BigWallop]

It's a Redring IHC 2 immersion heater. Immersion Heater Coil 2, 240 volts ~ 3Kw.

[RJ]

Not "that" red thing - I know that! ;)

The thing in top-left corner on the top of the cylinder. It has an electrical connector to it and I can't work it out. Its on the end of a T for the boiler in/return.

Pandora is looking more & more likely. Any other alternatives worth checking out?

[Andy Hall]

I was going to say it's an immersion heater. The make is right and the shape of the top is like an immersion heater cover. However, from enlarging one of the photos it appears that it says 240v 3A. An immersion heater would normally be 13A or more. Also I wouldn't expect it to be located as described.

Where does the other end of its lead go? To a terminal box along with the lead from the cylinder thermostat?

If so, then it's possibly a flow switch, pressure switch or thermostat or something like that.

You could look at what Albion has.... .andy

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[IMM]

Look at the Range cylinders thermal store. They may have one that is readily in stock.

[BigWallop]

I think he meant this red thing:

[Andy Hall]

expansion vessel.

The one on the top appears at first sight to be an immersion heater, but when you look more closely, I don't think that it is.

.andy

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[IMM]

This appears to be a high temperature boiler cut out. It is on the boilers return from the coil. If the return is too high it means the boiler is running away. The cylinder is up and over temp and the difference between the flow and return is minimal. It could be because of a number of problems all occurring at once, which means the cylinder will get and hotter and in danger of exploding if the pressure relief does not open.

Some versions of unvented cylinders have a high-temperature relief valve. If high temperatures occur, typically 90-95C, the valve physically open to an overflow pipe.

[Andy Hall]

That would make sense. The plate shows that it was made by Redring with a model code of IHC 2; but this doesn't appear on their web site

- it looks quite old anyway.

.andy

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[RJ]

Nope.

The imerssion heater goes in the centre of the tank - but it isn't cabled.

The red thing is deffinately not a heater, it connects only via the end of the T piece and teh cabling going to it is news: [e-mail]...