Recently I wrote asking about the thickness of the worktop jigs that you use with routers. Just for interest, the "budget" jig from Screwfix (note: not the 12m of oak-effect skirting board that they tried to fob me off with) is in-fact about 15mm thick.
Anyway, what a day - practiced with jig, no problems, so cut out the female joint on one worktop - beautiful results, so continued with new router to route a lip around the worktop (to fit under the tiles - the original worktop was 30mm, this is 40mm, so there needs to be a rebate to allow the edge of the worktop under the tile edge). Cut the piece to size, measured for the kitchen sink, and started cutting with jigsaw. Damned hard work - with downward cutting blades, the jigsaw bounces a lot, so I put more and more weight onto the worktop and the jigsaw to stop the bounce. This worked well, until I made the cut across the depth of the worktop; all of a sudden gravity kicked in and deposited me, the still whirring jigsaw and about 1/2 the worktop (say £50 worth) onto the floor (raises hand for Darwin nomination).
Repeated with the second worktop, although this time routed the sink hole with the worktop in situ (SWMBO has gone nuts over the sawdust) but at least this one's in place (shame about the hob, on the other worktop
- that's gonna have to wait for another worktop to be deliver - bang goes another ton), but hopefully I've learnt a few lessons.*
(* the one I didn't learn, was to remember to route the tongues for the worktop clamps - SWMBO did query what they were for when she found them underneath all the sawdust. "Bugger", said I, or words to that effect, whilst glaring at the newly fitted sink; Still - plan-B - which is achieveable - is to screw some battens on the underside of each worktop and clamp between those - there'll be no fouls, and it'll allow me more space to biscuit the worktops).
What a day.
(sorry for the rant, but I'm just coming off the boil)
Mike.