Update on tiling situation

[Stephen]

Evenin gents :)

Right after a few hours more of getting the tiles off I managed to finish it, thankfully I was only at work half a day today. So I had the afternoon to figure it out, well smack tile, tile fall.

Ok so all the tiles are removed, the plasterboard is erm... damaged beyond repair, or bodge :) ... especially on the tap end where it just kind flew off and I am back down to bare brick!!!

I Thought oopps, this is not going very well, so I thought no being DIY minded maybe remove all the loose bits get some expansion foam fill it and sand it down and rough it up and put the new tiles ontop ?

I'm sure thats not how to fix it but not knowing any better its all can think of.

...My brother in law whos living in our spare room hiding from his wife has just said, I should cut the old plasterboard out completely as "it's F****D" and then buy some more plasterboard, and stick it to the wall or install battens that would make it flush with the other surface with plastering adhesive. Leave to dry over night and tile on top ?

... its turned into one of those jobs I wish I never started :) ... what a sole crushing experience removing tiles is. Hindsight I wish I just cut the plasterboard out and avoided all that banging about as I'm not going to cut it out.... huff

Advice welcomed.

Wonders of he will be able to fit plasterboard into a mk4 golf ... hmmm wonder if I can cut it in the car park ... and just keep joining piece by piece up ?

Hopefully the tiles will hide the join marks.

[Stephen]

OR could I buy a bag of plastering adhesive mix it up and throwel it on the wall and drag a straight edge on it and leave to dry ?

or do you need some cement or something like sandstone or ....

it getting interesting now :)

clearly its obvious I should not be let loose on diy projects ever again :-p

[Jim]

Your most important criteria here is achieving a flat surface to tile on. On that basis plasterboard is pretty cheap and it may indeed be easier to destroy a bit more of the wall to make a nice square hole than to try and make good with plaster.

For what it's worth you can easily cut down a sheet in the car park if you need to to fit it in the car - just take a stanley knife, score it and snap it in half.

[Tim W]

Stephen wibbled on Friday 15 January 2010 17:14

If you need to go to the trouble of relining the wall, don't use PB it fails

*badly* if water gets behind the tiles.

I would use aquapanel or marmox (both being waterproof) then your efforts will reward you with more resilience. Marmox (seems to being mentioned a lot recently) is just as easy to cut as PB (score n snap, though it will eat stanley blades) and it's light. Aquapanel from what I've seen is heavy.

Marmox - you could follow your BIL's advice and stick it on, then tile the normal way.

[Usenet Nutter]

Smart idea putting up new PB...Nice flat surface to tile on .

Personally i use battens making sure they are even and putting in extra ones if you need to screw on any other "things" after tiling ( remembering where you put them of course. Remember to allow for the thickness of PB plus adhesive plus tiles when putting it up. Use plasterboard screws to fix PB to the battens .

Yup

Just mark it and cut one side with a Stanley knife and it will break easily enough . Take a tape and a straight edge .You can get narrower PB that should fit in a HB (or on a roofrack if supported properly ). If you do cut it in the carpark you might want to check where the battens are b4 you leave if you have already installed them as PB edges need to be along the line of the battens

[Tim W]

Stephen wibbled on Friday 15 January 2010 17:18

One-coat plaster will be the best bet - doesn't mind how thick it goes on - and yes, you only need a rough (it's better rough for tiling) finish that's flat.

[Usenet Nutter]

I used Aquapanel around bath/overbath shower and it is heavy but is smaller iirc than PB sheets ...can't remember how I cut it ...seem to recall using an old saw but I cd be wrong

Tiny Link to Knauf website

[Stephen]

... top stuff

What do you reckon to my idea of just buying a bag of plastering adhesive, I guess this stuff is like a filler ? And filler the 3/4" gaps of hacked to death PB area and drag a straight edge on it and watch it set or fall off the wall ? with a cupa ?

or do you have to apply this stuff in small coats only ?

if I do it like above, bucket of plasterboard adhesive, straight edge do you think this will dry for Monday if I get it done on Monday ?

Thanks

[John Rumm]

Adhesive is good for gluing - not ideal for filling and plastering. For that filler or plaster is better.

You have a few options....

Lets say you hack off the old boards etc back to bricks.

To fit new boards (be they plaster board or aqua panel), you can:

a) fix wood battens to the walls with screws and plugs, and then screw the board to the battens.

b) Use plasterboard adhesive. Apply fist sized "dabs" to the wall every

12" or so, and push the board onto them. use a level to make sure its upright. Leave for an hour or so to set.

c) As above but using expanding foam. Spray blobs of it onto the back of the board and offer up to the wall. Wedge in place and leave to set. Unlike the proper board adhesive it does not grab and hold as well until its set - but it is quick and easy to apply).

If you go for the fill approach, then get a bag of bonding plaster (£6 for 25kg from wickes (purple printing on the label)), slap it in all the holes and rule off with a straight edge using any flat bits of board you can find that you have left.

[Cicero]

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There's no point in using 'plastering adhesive' (probably 'plasterboard adhesive') when 'Onecoat' plaster is available to do the job properly.

I think you're being a bit optimistic about the time scale required to do this job. I doubt if the thick layer of *plaster* you appear to need will dry quickly enough for tiling in a couple of days.

If you need to finish quickly use one of the boards mentioned either bonded or battened.

Cic.

[The Natural Philosopher]

you can tile straight onto wet plaster. As long as its ste. 24hours max.

It won't get any wetter with tile cement ;-) if its wet already..

.

[Stephen]

I agree cic, I've decided to go the board route and do it properly. I've cut away the old plasterboard and now need some new board, wickes ehre I come. My new problem is the head resting end of the bath the PB gap is about the width of my index and the other end of the wall the gap is bigger so not too sure on how to handle that or maybe use a thicker board or pack more adhesive on the bigger gap size.

[Stephen]

I forgot to ask, after the PB goes up is that is can I tile straight onto that or does it need some priming with something ?

[nafuk]

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Tile straight on to it. As well as PB adhesive you can now get PB spray (as in blobs) adhesive in a can. Looks a bit like expanding foam (whih it may be?) and saves on the hassle of mixing PB adhesive and cleaning buckets etc. The most important bit of advice I can provide for tiling is to get good tile grout. Use the cheap adhesive from Wickes etc. but go to a tile shop and buy some good grout - is quite expensive (e.g. Bal) but is so much better than cheap grout of the combined adhesive/grout products.

[Stuart Noble]

I guess you'll be getting the 1800 x 900 x 12.5 size? Don't think there's anything thicker. You can have a gap at one end providing it isn't more than the thickness of your tiles.

With adhesive dabs the boards may initially want to slide down the wall and behind the bath. Is there anything there to stop them? If not, you may have to put a couple of screws in to hold them in place while the adhesive sets

[Cicero]

That would depend on the particular tile adhesive being used. Wickes's own brand 'All purpose tile adhesive and grout', states:

"Surfaces must be flat, *dry* and free from oil, grease and dust."

I doubt if absolute dryness is required but thick layers of plaster need time to stabilise and it's always sensible to follow product guidelines.

[Cicero]

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No need for thicker board - just blob in plenty of plasterboard adhesive. Note that this is different from 'Onecoat plaster'. Mix the adhesive slowly so that you get a stiff mix but not too dry. This will help the plasterboard to stay in place. Cutting plasterboard (your earlier post, I think) is easy. Score through one side (it's only paper) and then fold at the scoreline. Cut the other paper sided to separate.

Cic.

[The Natural Philosopher]

pack more adhesive, or use bits of thin ply to pack the board out.

In such cases I tend to use MDF instead of plasterboard and simply screw it to the wall.

Guaranteed flat surface for tiling.

[The Natural Philosopher]

tile straight on.

[The Natural Philosopher]

I stopped looking for good (wall)tile adhesive when I discovered evostik waterproof. Its been pretty damned good for me.

BAL grout is what I use.