Unfinished oak table

[Alan]

I bought an unfinished oak table from Costco a month or so ago, and it had a small set of instructions with it for choosing the eventual finish.

I've lost this bit of paper, but if I remember correctly it said leave it unfinished for a natural aged oak finish (ie stains and all) or use this tiny bottle of oil they gave me with it to finish it off, and something about sanding.

How should I seal the table to prevent water/wine/food stains etc from ruining it? Should I use any particular oil other than the one supplied (which I don't know what it is?). Someone mentioned using a clear danish oil. Some people say sand/coat/sand/coat ad infinitum.

Any advice?

[dingbat]

Don't leave it unfinished. Oak is very prone to "iron stain", which is a very dark and permanent stain and also somewhat prone to plain old water staining.

Your choice of finish is (as always) a compromise between resistance to hard wear as a table, work to apply it, and finished appearance. Although I'm generally a very light finisher, for a table I would tend towards a hard-wearing modern poly-based varnish. If you use a wiped-on finish rather than a brushed-on finish, then you can get a good strong finish without the "plastic top" effect of many poly varnishes. If you're in the UK then try Patina from Screwfix, if you're in the USA then use Minwax.

[b33k34]

I'd agree with this advice but not use varnish. Our oak table used to be spray varnished and eventually this chips when stuff is dropped on it or the oak 'moves'. Then the table stains in the uncovered areas.

We then stripped and oiled it. It's now wipe clean and stain resistant but minor stains and knocks are adding character. A light sand and coat of oil every year or so is needed but that's it. first time round a couple of coats woudl be a good idea.

Strangely enough we've found Ikea's worktop oil to be both cheap and easy to use - it dries quickly. Proper 'tung' oil takes forever and gives a darker finish.

[Mary Fisher]

I thought tung oil was only used for vessels and plates which would have food in or on them.

Mary

[dingbat]

Tung oil is the main ingredient in most "finishing oils". It doesn't yellow with age anything like as much as linseed does, and it's an easier oil to work with.

I wouldn't recommend pure tung oil to anyone inexperienced with oil finishes. Use a commercial blended finishing oil (like Liberon's) which is far easier to use. Almost all oils you might find are food-safe, once cured.

[david lang]

Oil is definately the way to go with oak. Easy to apply & recoat if you need to. I've always used Colouron's Antique Oil.

Always wondered about that stuff - does it give fair water resistance?

Dave

[Rick]

Imade my own oak table, we finisished it with 4 or 5 coats of danish oil, and it looks fantastic. We have not stained it yet.

Rick