Just bought an oak dining table, and now realised that it needs to be oiled prior to use.
Would appreciate advice and/or tips as to brands/makers to buy (and whom from) to achieve best performance. Have two small children so liquid spilages are likely...
Also, any tips as to method and frequency of application would be great.
Many TIA.
Assuming that it has no other finish, I would try Danish oil. Rub it in with a soft cloth and remove surplus a few minutes later. Initially I would go for three or four coats, replacing it when necessary. If stains become a problem, you can always sand the table and re-oil.
Jonathan
Jonathan wibbled on Wednesday 10 February 2010 07:39
I used 2 coats of Danish on my reclaimed 25 quid and resanded oak leaf table. Followed up by BriWax. It takes the abuse - looks dull ATM, but another waxing will fix that. Better with the kids to have a replensible finish rather than a varnish which looks great until the first scratch, then you're doomed...
Thanks all for the advice.
Would 3-4 coats of this one
The new table was not too expensive, so no major loss if need to replace after a couple of years. Jst wanting it to be as robust and presentable as possible in the meantime.
You can get a perfectly good, wipe down finish using polyurethane as long as you don't tosh it on too thick. Lovingly applied with a rag, as you would an oil, you get the best of both worlds.
Sorry for my ignorance - I assume you mean polyurethane-based varnish? That's what we had on our old table, and the easy of use (water proof, etc) sounds very tempting. Can you please suggest a (easily available - preferably from SF or TS) product?
PS: how many (very thin) layers would you recommend?
I'd try the Screwfix no nonsense yacht varnish as it's solvent based. It will probably go slightly yellow over time, and if that's an issue, use the interior no nonsense, which is water based and supposedly 100% clear. Can't comment on its water resistance though. The yacht stuff will be high gloss, so massage it well into the wood if you want a more satin look. You can do 2 or 3 coats on the trot without waiting for the previous to dry, but you must use the rag as if you're trying to take the varnish off again. In other words, aim to end up with an almost touch dry surface each time. It's natural behaviour is to sit on the surface and form a film, and this you don't want. Applied this way it shouldn't need much rubbing down when it's dry, but I use the abrasive side of those kitchen sponges to get a smooth finish (the finer white grade for non-stick pans). The back side of fabric backed abrasive is also good for de-nibbing if you're using a sander on the top.
Wood finishing: buy the Flexner book. Hosker's book is OK as far as it goes, but a bit trivial. Jewitt's is for serious interest.
You presumably spent a whole piole of money on a new table. Don't get it wrong on the finish.
Questions:
What makes you think this needs oiling? Manufacturer's recommendation?
What's the finish on it already?
What's it made of? You say oak, which is usually fairly high-end (and I guess white oak). Solid / veneer / laminate? Anything that's not oak on it around the details, including metal fittings? Seems odd for it to be supplied unfinished. Is it new or old? Freshly stripped? Ever had a finish on it? What's the style and what would look appropriate / wrong on it?
What finish do you want on it? How resistant to kids / teapots / fire / whisky ?
So far you've been recommended Danish oil and yacht or spar varnish, none of which are appropriate.
As to "oil", then oil is a good initial finish. Not great for protective qualities, but it makes the wood look better - particularly for chattoyance or ray-flake figure on oak. It's a good starting point, but I'd never use oil alone.
There's one oil to use, Liberon's Finishing oil (and copies thereof) It's a tung oil base, modified (thinners and driers) to make it easy to use. Apply to warm wood (warm workshop, but not depths of winter) with cotton or linen rag. Don't over-apply, or it'll stay sticky. Repeat coats after an hour or two. You won't get a "smooth" finish on oak unless you go all out for pore filling, so don't worry about it.
This oil is a good starting treatment for bare wood. Needs something else over it, not much point in applying it over another finish (except some oils).
Once oiled, leave it. Oil is not a finish (outside kitchens) that really needs "feeding" or repeat maintenance application.
Don't use Danish oil. That's an oil varnish mix. It's good tough finish on workshop tools, bit dull for furniture. Quality also varies hugely between brands. If you want "oil and varnish" on good furniture, then apply the two materials separately (oil first).
Avoid linseed. Hard to get a decent grade, yellows with age. That's usually OK on oak, but a nightmare on pale timber. The only linseed I ever use is home-boiled with lead, otherwise I use a tung-based oil.
An oiled finish will need something else over it. With increasing robustness, this could be wax, shellac, varnishes. Read Flexner. Personally, for everyday non-antique dining tables, I use "Patina". This is a very good gel polyurethane (NOT your average polyurethane) that's also rag-applied. As it's a gel, it goes on thin and so doesn't build up the usual "Airfix kit" plastic sheen of polyurethanes. Made by Langlow in Speke and somewhat hard to find outside NW England.
I use polyurethanes because they resist heat, moist heat and alcohol well, as well as being physically hard.
Manufaturer instructions.
None - wood is untreated.
Table (to my surprise) arrived with wood completely untreated. It is all (inc. extension) made of solid oak blocks glued together. It is brand new, and cost relatively little (only ~£150), so no major disaster if a new one will be required in a few years. I have young children, so this is something that we took into account before choosing it.
Nothing special, just a low maintenance, water resistant and (if possible) heat rersistant smooth finish. We are not too bothered really as long as it looks ok.
Go for oil and Patina. Esp. with kids. If you find a mail order source, let us know. I get mine from the hardware shop in Ormskirk (used to get it easily from Screwfix, until they lost the plot).
Oil and wax is nice (and refinishes in the future), but horribly prone to white rings from teapots. Wax over oil looks like "plain oil" is usually expected to, only rather better at it.
Oil and shellac is nice, glossier (good or bad), much more work to apply and doesn't like alcohol spills.
For a kitchen table, Rustin's Bar Top is as heat resistant as you'll find in anything that still looks like wood. This needs to go onto bare wood, not over another finish. It might work over a light oiling, but you'd need to experiment first (I've done this successfully on maple).
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