Underground services

Thanks for that, Adam, very useful.

Thanks!

Another trick: whenever you pull a string out to pull a cable in, pull a replacement string through at the same time.

En el artículo , Adam Funk escribió:

Better still, pull two or three through. You'll never regret it

Actually the professional way is you put *one* in, and when you pull a cable through, THEN you also pull a new draw string through.

When the cables are PVC covered, anything but a straight run can be difficult. Conduit bends are frequently given access plates for this very reason. Also a liberal coating of talc helps the pull through process.

Most LED lights work between 85 and 270 volts.

You need not design for the 3% voltage drop on lighting if you are using these lights. It would of course be a variation from the regs.

National Joint Utilities Group publish separation distances under public ground but irrelevant for private except BT openreach would not repair a service sharing a duct with electricity.

I blew some fishing line with a sandwich bag as the parachute over 60 metres through 63mm ducting when some numpty tied the drawcord badly. I used a stihl leaf blower, you have to start it slowly until it is underway and then let it rip. Our flexible conduit came with a drawcord installed and I had the habit of pulling a cable and a draw cord in so the drawcord was available for next time.

AJH

I was going to say "in this case it not a house supply voltage drop but a localised /workshop voltage drop. The voltage drop is just on the existing cable to the workshop."

But Huge did say "when I start the 4-post lift, the mains voltage sags so much the lights in the workshop (which are actually on a power circuit go out .."

There is either some terminology mix up by Huge, or as you say, the house supply is crap.

And could you clarify that for me please?

Are you saying that when you redid the garage(workshop?) you kept the existing SWA supply to the workshop and fitted two CU's in the workshop. One for sockets and one for lighting?

Cheers

S'okay, I didn't mean an actual public telephone - just an intercom so wife can call me in for lunch.

DECT phones won't reach? I know from having to park on the street that ours will reach >35m (albeit with only one wall and one car in the way). And even if you need a repeater, might that be worth considering as a better investment? Eg it'd allow her to call you in even if you are further afield - eg reading the water meter :)

Just run the network out there. You know you'll need it one day. Then VoIP phones.

You put it in when you install the conduit.

En el artículo , Huge escribió:

Run a couple of Cat5e while you're at it, then if you decide you need a phone or internet later, the cable's already there.

Garage and workshop are two separate locations. Workshop and garage power use the same independent CU, to prevent the house CU being affected by a garage or workshop fault, but different circuits. Workshop is a 45A supply, garage power is a 32A supply. Workshop end of SWA uses a local CU with 2 x 32A circuits to supply workshop and her potting shed. The workshop lighting is fed as a spur from the potting shed ring and the potting shed lighting is fed similarly from the workshop ring to try to provide some safety. The workshop 110V locally generated supply is shared by workshop and potting shed. The garage lighting is on a separate circuit in the house CU and is not fault prone.

Why two Cat5e? A switch only costs £11.

At a guess one for gigE and the other for phone/whatever.

If you want a POTS phone, one of them can do that and still have spare pairs. Then the other to feed the switch.

OK. However I think VOIP is easier and more useful than installing and maintaining two separate networks.