underfloor heating

? what?

Are? You talking about?

Total utter bollocks!

You haven';t a clue, have you?

It dominates teh market because we didn;t have propelt isnualted house, and its gfar esier to istall after market.

UFH is FAR better and more comfortable and FAR more even in temperature..if its done as part of the overall design.

Mine is perfectly capable of heating the rooms its in to well in excess of 25C. And that's the temperature they STAY at. Because there's about 4 tons of floor in each one a..open a window, cold air flows in..shut it, and within minutes that 4 tons of concrete has warmed it back up, using nice natural convection.

The whole point about an in-screed UFH is that it is almost IMPOSSIBLE to change the room temperature quickly. We have the UFH on, and then light fires as well. Our open fire kicks out about 5Kw plus. It STILL takes about an hour to pull the room up one and a half degrees. Theres about 1500W of UFH in there. That takes even longer. But conversely, if you shut it down at midnight, its only dripped three degrees by morning, on the coldest nights.

Rooms which do NOT have the thermal mass like upstair rooms with wooden floors, warm up just as quickly with UFH as with anything else, and cool down as fast. UFH is after all just a radaiotor spread flat across the floor.

The biggest advantage we find is this. In order to not feel cold, it seems that you want the coldest part of your body to be at a given temperature. With UFH there is no cold layer of air arund your feet. So we actually feel warmer at lower temperures. ~The whole room is utterly even in temperature. Ther are no hot spots near radiators, no problems with them being blanked off by curatins or sofa..any cold air off windows slips to the floor and get warmed befoire it rises to warm the rest of the room. The walls being the coldest parts with the windows, set up mild downward flows, so you get an overall convection in the middle of the room, which is warmest, and cold edges.

With radiators the edges are warm, and the cooler downdraiught is in the center, where you are sitting.

Net result, you run the room hotter at the edges- where the losses are - to compensate. And hotter overall, to keep your feet warm. Radiators are a triumph of convenience over results. UFH is way ahead in the comfort and economy stakes, but its a total bitch to retrofit PROPERLY, which is why its got a bad name.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher
Loading thread data ...

Yes. Plastic pipes do not conduct that well. I can put my hands on the flow pipes at and alleged 60C and they do not burn. So thats one barrier the heat has to overcome.

The most interesting thing I have found is that under the sofa, the floor temps are as high as an estimated 30C. We have 4" of screed, a layer of plastic underlay foam and wood laminate as well..that isn'y hugley conductive either. So the screed center is fairly warm I giuess, but it is cool on the outside..due really to that being teh most conductive part. Airflow really works to cool it.

Rhe thermal; mass issue ois merely one of time. It acts to stabilise temperature massively. The summer before last - the hot one - we stayed inside with the windows CLOSED and the curtains drawn, and stayed below

25C while the air outside was in the mid /high 30's.

Airflow was minimal and via the fire underfloor vents, and chimney and the underfloor space was shady and cool as well..

In another house where there is some unintentional UFH due to copper pipes unlagged running under a bathroom floor, they rate of temperature increase is totally different.Its warm within minutes..and cools just as fast.

If you want rapid heat rises, just use a suspended floor and lay the pipes in air over insulation. Its about the same as a conventional rad, except the more diffuse heat source is far more pleasant.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Its impossible to legislate for stupidity. The same will happen in any high thermal mass house that is subject to overheating.

We KNOW what temperature we like to sit in - 19C-21C depending on the RH.

Its imply a matter of setting the stat. No point in timers..not with te thermal mass we have...with ANY form of heating.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

I'm saying it is slow to react to any changes in input energy or heat output.

It's still not common on new builds either.

I don't want an even temperature throughout the day. That would be a disadvantage - apart from any running cost issues.

Very energy efficient. Not.

Which means it's using the energy input inefficiently.

Err, either the idea of a large thermal mass is a good one or not. So which is it? You apparently seem to have both.

And I'd take issue that an underfloor system with wood floors can react as quickly as conventional rads can. For a start there will be a much greater mass of water in the heating coils than in equivalent rads. It then has to find its way through the floor and covering - both of which will be decent insulators.

So you've moved the draughts round a bit?

It's pointless in a house with suspended wood floors.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I don't think it's reasonable to call their behaviour stupid, maybe uneducated, but I think it's a matter of people exercising their choices and paying for them. This system doesn't allow any redundancy for that in certain weather conditions and the designers didn't allow for differing habits.

AJH

Reply to
AJH

The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

My nearest neighbour has just had a bungalow built in his garden. He opted for underfloor heating with a suspended wooden floor. He wouldn't agree with you.

Reply to
Roger

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.