Two computers, one display

You could even "capture" one of the real machines into a VM and then run that on the other... but that is probably over complicating it. Remote desktop to the "older" machine would probably be simpler if you don't need to run games on it.

No need to - you can just use RDP that is built into windows and will work on your LAN without needing to access anything "outside".

On the Win 7 box:

Enable Remote Access:

Step 1: Launch the "Start" panel. Step 2: Right-click the "Computer" icon. Step 3: Select "Properties." Step 4: Select "Remote Settings." Step 5: Click the "Allow connection from computers running any version of Remote Desktop (less secure)" option. Step 6: Select "OK."

Now open a command prompt, and type:

ipconfig

Make a note of the IP address.

On the other machine run the remote desktop connection program (should be installed as standard) and put in the IP address of the other machine. Click though the security confirmation and then login with the username and password that you use on that machine. It will then open its UI in a window on your computer (scaled to match the display capabilities of the machine you are using for access rather than for the one that you are accessing (like Teamviewer etc)

You can run the other machine windowed or full screen.

When I bought my first one, that's exactly what I asked the clerk at the computer store. The answer I got was they were unaware of quality issues with HDMI->VGA or DP++ to VGA. It has turned out to work fine at 1920x1080 @ 60. We know from theory, if you make the VGA portion of cabling long enough, it can't stay good forever. I have run the VGA signal in question, over two 6 foot lengths of VGA cable (normal cable + extender cable).

One of them is a bit cheaper, and was fine. The last one I got, has an HDMI to Audio output, which I've also tested and works fine. I only tested the Audio function a few weeks ago.

HDMI to VGA Good HDMI to VGA+Audio Good, both tested

DP++ to VGA Good

The computer store has a 30 day return policy, so if an item has a persistent issue, it shows up at the return desk. That's how the staff "develop an opinion", from that returns desk.

When I had a duff brand-new 1TB drive, I took it back, and the tech tested it on the spot and agreed the drive had no motor (it didn't try to spin, not at all, and it was using four wire power too). Small drives don't normally have the 3.3V spin control, but it is best to remove 3.3V to all of them. The SATA from the power supply has five wires (I don't use that), whereas a Molex to SATA has four wires, and it won't stop spinup. You might find spin control on a 22TB SATA HDD (won't start with a five wire cable presented).

Paul

PC#1 HDMI\ KVM- HDMI ---- HDMI2VGA --- VGA monitor This should be fine, and PC#2 HDMI/ to my surprise, even at 1920x1080 VGA.

I was able to find a VGA2HDMI on Amazon right now, at a quite reasonable price. It uses a USB cable for additional +5V power. The output on the video card might have a 500mA limit.

I would get the adapters I needed first, and test them, then make the purchase of the KVM.

It never hurts to have additional adapters. Let a few years pass, and they may fetch more than normal on Ebay.

You have to be careful with the adverts for adapters. Check the connector gender and see if it is reasonable. The HDMI out should be female on a VGA2HDMI for example. My HDMI2VGA has a short cable with a male HDMI on it.

Even when you own an HDMI monitor, it's not always a bed of roses. My HDMI+VGA monitor, my very first attempt to use the HDMI, it did not work. I then used a DP to HDMI active converter, and the HDMI signal out of that, worked with the monitor.

You need a rich set of adapters for all occasions.

Examples of some adapter types:

DP++ to HDMI passive (cheap, does not use power, DP++ has HDMI signals available)

DP to HDMI active (Useful for converting first generation DP, into usable HDMI, works great, glad I bought one) (Was originally purchased for Optiplex 780 DP connector, which is not a DP++ output) (Has seen usage, everywhere but on the Optiplex 780 refurb... HDMI monitor likes it.) HDMI to VGA active Good DP++ to VGA active Good VGA to HDMI active Don't own one. Would not have suspected it would be so cheap.

DVI-I to VGA passive (In a lot of video card boxes) (No DVI-D to VGA active)

DVI-D to HDMI passive (haven't tested)

Paul

Crumbs!

That appears do-able!

There was a hint upthread that screen performance may be degraded. I don't do gaming but would miss U Tube videos.

Thanks John. I have run the HP display from the W11 box. I'm planning to leave this job until after the holidays. Fibre to get installed , two ancient cars to get through MOTs and wife off to Kazakhstan shortly! (who in their right mind would go there just now?)

The bandwidth is not a problem.

But if they choose to use compression before transmission, it depends on what does the compression. For example, if your video card does the compression of a video stream, it can do that at about 10x realtime (300 frames a second). Easily outpacing the loading.

So yes, you can watch a video over RDP.

If you are using Wifi, only if the Wifi is really really crusty, will that spoil your fun.

Paul

Ok. Paul.

This seems to be the way to go:-)

I'm going to leave it until September. Too much going on to play with PCs:-)

Thanks

As I recall, only the professional/business versions of Windows had the RDP server. Is my memory OK? There are, of course, third-party alternatives.

I find that HD resolution over VGA is generally "ok", and unless you see it side by side against a native HDMI (or other digital connection) display you may not be aware of the difference. I think it depends a bit on what you are used to, and how fussy you are.

(I have been in an office where they have moved PCs about and in some cases swapped video leads, and ended up with VGA on a 24" monitor. I have looked at it and commented about it looking a bit "fuzzy", so swapped it back to DVI or HDMI, and said "there, see what I mean?", and have been greeted with "looks the same to me!").

I think in Tim's case with a 20 year old small screen, anything will be an improvement.

The one I find tricky is DVI with a resolution over 1920 x 1200 that needs an active dual link converter, which are tricky to find and quite pricey.

no worries... I expect RDP will do what you need anyway, bu there offer is there if you need it.

Erm, probably any fighting aged man living in Russia right now :-)

That's right, Pro for the server. they all have the client.

It's an analogue signal (actually four) and if the cable and termination impedances aren't pretty accurate, you will see reflections, or 'ghosting' as it was called in analogue TV days. If you get large enough reflections with digital signals, you will simply see nothing, or a badly scrambled picture, rather than a bit of ghosting.

Well, some people have poor eyesight and don't know it, others have indistinct hearing and don't know it. No point in giving the former a sharp TV or display, or the latter a decent stereo system.

Vastly more choice - it's basically impossible to buy 4:3 monitors nowadays. I'd look for 21-24" monitors.

One thing to think about is that your monitor has a pixel resolution of about 100 pixels per inch.

If you go for fewer PPI then things on the screen 'look bigger' for the same resolution. If you go for more PPI then they 'get smaller' but you can change Windows scaling settings to upscale to keep them readable (Win11 is better at this than 7) - this gives a crisper, easier to read display as each character / icon / etc has more pixels to play with.

So if you go for a larger monitor (24-27") you either get everything just look bigger (lower PPI than you currently have), or you stick with roughly the same PPI (things are the same size but more 'real estate'). Or you could go with a higher PPI which would need changing scaling settings to stop everything becoming very tiny, but get a nicer looking display once done.

You can also just drive a panel with an non-native resolution - eg your current 1280x1024 - and the panel will upscale it to fit your display. This looks a bit fuzzier than having Windows do it, but is workable if the fuzziness doesn't bother you, especially for the Win7 box if you don't plan to keep it longer term.

So worth keeping an eye on the PPI figure and deciding whether you want 'bigger pixels' (PPI < 100), 'more pixels' (PPI > 100) or 'same size pixels' (PPI=100).

Theo

Reflections at impedance mismatches in a cable and connectors will not give you a visual impression of ghosting in the accepted analogue TV sense - i.e. you won't see a complete shadow image displaced several microseconds down and to the right of the main one.

What you might see is typically "ringing" that will show up as fringes or brightness shifts close to any high contrast areas of the display.

Indeed - the robustness will vary depending on the coding and presence of FEC in the data.

Arguably if they are starting from a lower threshold, it makes sense to not degrade the experience any more than necessary before it reaches their senses!

The current best cost/benefit is an HD 1920 x 1080 pixels screen

the panels are made in billions for TV sets and you can get a 24" for about £100 if you look around

Yup, forgot to mention that - not sure what version of Win 7 Tim has?

If it is home premium rather than pro, then he could use Win VNC instead.

However there is a way to enable RDP server on "home" versions of windows:

In fact the RDP wrapper actually gives a *better* user experience than that you get with the stock RDP client capability on pro versions of windows.

Normally the RDP client imposes a "one at time" limit on connected sessions. So if you login remotely, it closes the console session of the local user, and you can't login remotely more than once as different users (something you would normally need to buy windows server and additional "terminal server" licenses to get).

The wrapper does away with that limitation, allowing concurrent multi user access to the machine.