As recommended by the garage owner I went to an elderly man in a run down s hack. After spending three quarters of an hour watching him rummaging in bo xes while variously muttering, swearing and telling me "about the war" he p roduced a couple of new bearings to match the old one I showed him. Then pl ucked a figure out of the air "for cash".
OD 2 inch. Bore 1 inch. Width 3/8 inch.
Today I discovered a second bearing per wheel. So it seems I will have to r eturn.
Okay. I found a website selling the type of seal I want and, the really good news is, a "related product" looks exactly like my bearing! EE9.
Woohoo!
Ah, the old KLNJ, I remember them well.
Good result. Now, to fit I would do the nut up to a tight "finger tight" if the threads are OK, or tighten delicately with a spanner until you just feel the bearings "binding" when turning the hub by hand. Then back off the nut to the next castellation before fitting the locking pin (ideally a new one). If it binds just when the hole aligns with the castellation, then back it off one sixth of a turn. You should just be able to feel a bit of "rock" at the wheel rim, with the wheel fitted and jacked off the ground.
At the risk of stating the bleeding obvious, if it is just a trailer which only goes a mile to the tip at 30 mph, it is not as important as if you use it for hundreds of miles at motorway speeds carrying a horse or a boat.
No seal will help if you plunge a hot bearing into cold salt water.
It'll suck. Hard.
Andy
good news is, a "related product" looks exactly like my bearing! EE9.
Thanks for those instructions. There are still some things I am not sure ab out. Do I seat the lip seal with a hammer using a wooden disc as a 'cushion '. If so do I push it against the bearing or just level with the edge of th e hub. Also how much grease to apply? Paint each side of the bearings and p ack the area between the spindle, spindle sleeve and hub?
Yes that should be fine
Against the bearing should be OK, or just below the edge of the hub. The flat side faces the outside worls.
I would try to fill both the bearings completely by squidging grease around the cage, from both sides, before final assembly. This will still leave some air spaces. Leave the space between the bearings empty, but there is no harm smearing some grease on the spindle and inside of the hub, this will help to prevent corrosion.
I take it there is just one oil seal on the inboard side, with the outboard being sealed by the dust cover over the castellated nut.
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Interesting. Before I took the bearing apart the grooved side of the seal faced the outside world.
Sorry I did not mention it in my last post but there is a grease nipple on each Hub. It is between the two bearings. I guess the area around the spindle and between the bearings is supposed to be a reservoir for grease?
That's not the *usual* way they are installed, mainly because in mucky environments mud / dirt will collect in the recess, and corrode the spring.
The grease nipple gives you a way to replace degraded / leaked grease. If you fill the space up completely until grease is extruded past the seal every time you pump, there is a risk that the bearings will overheat, particularly if they run at a reasonable speed, say 1000 rpm. But that might take a kilo of grease per hub, so you probably would not do that accidentally.
I would stick with my original advice as to how to do the initial build. If you then give each hub something like 10 strokes of a grease gun once a year (more frequently if you use it every day) you are unlikely to do any harm.
Thanks. I will be taking it on a 800 mile trip in 12 days so want to do as good a job as I can.
Good luck. Give it a trial run (a few miles?) and check the hub temperature by hand or with an IR thermometer as soon as you stop. Expect it to be a bit warm, if it is not too hot to touch it should be OK.
I will let you know how I get on.
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